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Trouble on cold mornings...

L

Lord Stanley

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My 1995 Contour, 5 speed, 4 cyl, starts fine except for on cold morings... This morning it was about 30 degrees out and it took a while to get it going... The starter was turning over fine, it just took a while for the engine to get going... I read on the Ford forums that it could be the "cold start relay" fuse but I could not find one...
 
never heard of a cold start relay before.

I would check your batteries health, make sure it reads at least 12.6 volts when the vehicle isn't running. Also have the battery load tested.

It was about 35 degrees where I am this morning and my 95 zetec/5spd started just fine.


however last winter I did have some issues. I load tested the battery and it was bourder line so I repalced it, no issues since.
 
I think if the battery cranks fine its not something he needs to worry about.

Stumbling upon starting might have something to do with the ignition system, if the plugs and wires are original from 1995 it doesnt matter how many miles on them they are over a decade old. I think I said in another post you made it would be a good idea (since you just got the car) to start updating a lot of the components.

Like I said, Motorcraft/Autolite spark plugs, new spark plug wires, Fuel filter, add a can of fuel system cleaner, air filter, all of these things really will help the cold and warm performance of the motor.
 
AliasJerk said:
I think if the battery cranks fine its not something he needs to worry about.

Stumbling upon starting might have something to do with the ignition system, if the plugs and wires are original from 1995 it doesnt matter how many miles on them they are over a decade old. I think I said in another post you made it would be a good idea (since you just got the car) to start updating a lot of the components.

Like I said, Motorcraft/Autolite spark plugs, new spark plug wires, Fuel filter, add a can of fuel system cleaner, air filter, all of these things really will help the cold and warm performance of the motor.
Click to expand...

Hahaha, I know... I should have time to swap the plugs tomorrow morning...
 
I also have trouble starting on cold mornings - but I've got the Duratec.

I've replaced plugs and wires, both O2 sensors, the coil pack, the IAC, cleaned the throttle body... A few other things, too, but it still does it on colder mornings, and with fall/winter coming, I'm concerned about being able to still get to school...

Hmm, although... Would not getting there really be all that bad?
 
BoSoxBruin said:
Ok, the first spark plug was badly oil fouled, there was even some oil on the spark plug wire boot... What gives?

The other three were fine...
Click to expand...


check the valve cover gasket. I have recently been getting an oil smell when coming to a stop or after shutting the car off. I could see that the valve cover gasket was leaking and I found alittle oil down on plug 4. changed teh gasket and it has all but gone away .... bottom of enigne is covered in oil and dirt:blackeye: but at least it isn't loosing any appreciable amount of oil.
 
BoSoxBruin said:
Yea, I do not have the tools or skills to take apart an engine...
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a Valve cover?!?!

valve cover = 20 minutes of your time, its as easy, if not easier, than replacing spark plugs, just remove the bolts all around the valve cover, and pull up, it might take a little extra force as its been seated on there for 12 years, but it will come with a little effort. Do you have a socket wrench set?

Plus Oil on the plugs = why you have bad cold starts, and could also explain a rough idle.
 
valve cover isn't that hard.

  • first and optional is to remove the intake to get to the coil pack
  • remove spark plug wires
  • remove timing belt cover
  • remove breather tube, might be easier to do as you pull the cover
  • lossen all bolts, 10mm iirc
  • lift up and slide out from under fuel lines and throttle cables
  • press new seal into place
  • reverse proceedure for install
should take about 30 minutes or so
 
BoSoxBruin said:
Oh, see I do not know too much about engines... Do I need to drain the oil or anything?

Also, what do I torque the bolts to when I am replacing it?
Click to expand...


no you do not have to drain the oil, but it would be best to do with with a cold engine because the head/valve cover is aluminum and there is less chance of stripping anything.


I don't recall the torque spec off hand but I would guess its around 10 ft/lbs. the bolts are in sleeves that only allow them to be tightened so far so make them snug then torque them alittle so they don't move.
 
Last edited:
I also had oil on a spark plug - the center one in the back (Duratec, like I said). Not sure which number it is. Could the valve cover also be
my issue?
 
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