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where to buy quality cross-drilled rotors (rear)

T

teamSVTour

Hard-core CEG'er
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Jun 7, 2005
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My rear cross drilled rotors were pretty gouged when I bought the car and now I can't get more then a month or two to a set of break pads b/c the friction causes the pads to separate. I want to get a new set of cross drilled rear rotors so they match the fronts.

So does anyone know/have experience with where I can get a quality set of cross drilled rear rotors (can also be slotted) that are not too expensive? They also must be zinc coated to prevent rust. I have been looking at E-bay but I don't know if I can trust the reliability of those brands.
 
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I've asked around. The places I went to would not. I guess I could try NAPA or something.

But other than that anyone know of a good place to buy some from?
 
b/c the friction causes the pads to separate. ??

I'd say you have a pad problem, not a rotor problem.
 
Todd TCE said:
b/c the friction causes the pads to separate. ??

I'd say you have a pad problem, not a rotor problem.
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oh reeeally? so that's why I have went through 2 pairs of Bendix pads in the past 6 months then? :shrug:

To clarify they pads are separating from the backing plate
 
first problem was buying bendix pads. try some raybestos advanced technology or professional grade pads. the sheer strength on those are double of what oe requires. the difference is the backing plate, they use nrs plates. ive seen it with my own eyes, i can vouch for the brand. i work for them.
 
I though Bendix was what was so raved about on here. Doesn't Stazi sell Bendix products?


LukeDuke said:
first problem was buying bendix pads. try some raybestos advanced technology or professional grade pads. the sheer strength on those are double of what oe requires. the difference is the backing plate, they use nrs plates. ive seen it with my own eyes, i can vouch for the brand. i work for them.
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IIRC the bendix semi-metallic pads were more than the raybestos which is why I went with them. :confused: So you guys are saying this is w/out a doubt the pads? I mean my rotor is far from being smooth so that is why I think the added friction on the rotor is/was what was causing the pads to separate from the backing. The bendix pads I believe have a replacement warranty. I got them from Advance. Maybe they will give me $ back instead of another replacement.

Luke Duke, what other "performance" brands should I look for other than Raybestos? I want something that is quiet, low dust, and has good grip.
 
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if you have had two sets already that have failed, it has to be the pads. as for the rotors if they have grooves that are deep enough or cause bad runout they still wont cause the puck to fall off the backing plate. might be a good idea to just replace both with something other than what u have used and had failed. are you talking about the front or back pads or both?
 
LukeDuke said:
if you have had two sets already that have failed, it has to be the pads. as for the rotors if they have grooves that are deep enough or cause bad runout they still wont cause the puck to fall off the backing plate. might be a good idea to just replace both with something other than what u have used and had failed. are you talking about the front or back pads or both?
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Its just the rear rotors. They are not gouged per se. They look like they are glazed. Like almost a coating that won't come off. It is a little rough to the touch and not smooth like glass like it should be.
 
then i would just try new d/s rotors and new pads on the rear. make sure the new rotors are washed free with soap and water to get the glaze and crap off of them. idk what else to tell you. or you could just try a new set of pads, maybe a different brand and see if it happens again before you replace the rotors. but i would definately try to get some money back from Autozone and then never go back there again. but thats just my point of view.
 
so no to the Raybestos pads Advance sells? What is a good pad (quiet, low dust, good grip) and place to get them?

And my original question is where to get a good quality set of cross drilled or drilled and slotted rotors. I don't trust what I see on E-bay
 
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i never said no to raybestos. i think they are very good quality pads and are made especially for each application with special formulas. i would try them if i were you. you can get them at carquest, napa, csk, and parts plus. the best ones are called advanced technology but they might only have professional grade for contours. or they may have quietstops. check into those. not sure about better quality d/s rotors. ebays are good price but idk about the quality.
 
Reybestos I can get at Advance. They have:

"professional" grade semi metallic $29.99-32.00

"Raymold" semi-metallic $25.99

"Super Stop" semi-metallic 39.99

There is also a few ceramic versions such as Friction Master $45.00 and Satisfied Brake Pads Pro Ceramic $39.99

Never went the ceramic route so I don't what to expect from those.
 
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your best bet is to get either the super stops or pg raybestos. i would stay with semi met since thats what came on our car and thats what are brakes are made for. i would reccomend super stops more. just make sure you lube up all the contact point on the pad and caliper to reduce noise with whatever pad you choose.
 
I found a few places that will turn my rotors for like $15 a side. So I think I'm going to do that and also get some new pads. We will see how it goes.

Lube the contact points? You mean the actual part of the pad that touches the rotor? I've never heard of doing that. What do you use for lubrication?
 
do not put any kind of grease on the pad material itself. no, no , no, no.....There is supposed to be friction there because that is what stops you.

Don't even bother with puting grease near it at all. But, if you had to lube anything to keep stuff from rattling, it would be where the back of the pad (the metal part) meets the caliper piston and where the ears of the pad slide into the caliper.

If it were my car, I'd put new rotors on the back and new pads from Bendix. New Raybestos rotors from Rockauto.com are ~$14 each and pads are cheap as hell too.
 
what he said about the lube. not the friction material, just the back and ears of the pad that rubs against the calipers. ur call man.
 
69Boss302 said:
do not put any kind of grease on the pad material itself. no, no , no, no.....There is supposed to be friction there because that is what stops you.

Don't even bother with puting grease near it at all. But, if you had to lube anything to keep stuff from rattling, it would be where the back of the pad (the metal part) meets the caliper piston and where the ears of the pad slide into the caliper.

If it were my car, I'd put new rotors on the back and new pads from Bendix. New Raybestos rotors from Rockauto.com are ~$14 each and pads are cheap as hell too.
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thanks for the clarification. Doesn't look like Rockauto has drilled or slotted rotors for our platform. I think I'm going to try the machining route and get my $ back from advance and put on some new pads. We'll see how it goes.
 
Update:

Pulled my pads and they were fine. They were not separated like I had thought was causing the noise.

And now my brakes went from a grinding noise to a "clunk clunk" on the driver side rear. It only clunks when my brakes are pressed. It clunks about every revolution of the wheel so when pressing the brakes it clunks faster when going faster and slower when going slower. I'm almost certain this is a bad rotor.

So....anywhere else beside BAT I can get some good quality cross drilled rear rotors??
 
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