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Wiring Tweeters

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Blast47

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
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Phoenix, Arizona (Yeah, it's hot)
I just purchased some upgrades for the 'tour (sub, enclosure, amps, etc)
and I also have a pair of tweeters...
No amp for the door speakers - should I just splice the two fronts for tweeters? Or are tweeters not going to help at all?

I was thinking of placing them at the top of the interior a pilar (where the plastic meets liner)

Not sure if this will make a dif or not... or if I should go with something else for wiring them up... or not include them at all.

Suggestions greatful.
 
Oh yeah tweeters are one of the best investments to me especially if you have subs and amps and all the goods. It makes the sound alot clearer. Thats how mine are at the top of both the driver and passenger side of the hard plastic. But only mine are spliced with the back speakers because my front two sound like crap. (they arent blown though) so i put most of the sound to the rear to turn the front ones down but i still have sound in the front do to the tweeters. But before you put them in make sure the have crossovers in them that's very improtant. Good Luck:laugh:
 
Blast47 said:
I just purchased some upgrades for the 'tour (sub, enclosure, amps, etc)
and I also have a pair of tweeters...
No amp for the door speakers - should I just splice the two fronts for tweeters? Or are tweeters not going to help at all?

I was thinking of placing them at the top of the interior a pilar (where the plastic meets liner)

Not sure if this will make a dif or not... or if I should go with something else for wiring them up... or not include them at all.

Suggestions greatful.
Click to expand...

I would make sure that the tweaters have filters on them... cause your going to want them to play high freq. and not mid/bass freq's.....
 
IRingTwyce said:
What brand HU do you have or are you planning on purchasing? The mid-level and up Pioneers have built-in high pass filters, so you can program the HU with the frequency you want going to the speakers.
Click to expand...


yeah but that is going for the whole speaker, if they are spliced onto the existing speaker they will still get low/mid frequencies ....

you need a cross over to split the signal to mid/low and high frequencies so that each speaker gets the appropriate frequencies ...
 
I must have missed the "add-on" part. :troutslap:

But if he has subs, and stock door speakers, it would still be a good thing, as the stockers can't handle lows and mids for crap. The subs would pick up his lows, and the stock speakers would be saved from buzziness.
 
IRingTwyce said:
I must have missed the "add-on" part. :troutslap:

But if he has subs, and stock door speakers, it would still be a good thing, as the stockers can't handle lows and mids for crap. The subs would pick up his lows, and the stock speakers would be saved from buzziness.
Click to expand...


most definately, best to use low and high pas filters so that you don't drive a speaker at a frequency it shouldn't be used at ...
 
Ok, sooo.. you guys are saying I should use low freq filters for all the door speakers and the tweeters? (so they only receive high freq.)?


I have a basic AIWA headunit, that I love b/c it has preamp output for sub, and the display is green led that matches the 'tours lighting perfectly.
 
I have Pioneer tweeters that had built-in cross-overs. Mounted near the access panel for the rear-view, they really pull the sound stage up off the floor.

BTW, what's the difference between a cross-over and a filter?
 
Here we go.... now I would suggest using an inline filter from install edge.... here's the link.... http://www.installedge.com/products/product_details.jsp?productID=6821

They sell caps in different freq cut offs, most commonly 200, 300, 2800, or at least that is what we carry in our store, install edge web site carries more freq cut offs.....

Here's how I would wire it though, I'd wire it for 8 ohm, assuming you're using a 4ohm woofer and a 4ohm tweeter, or maybe you just have a speaker that your adding a tweeter to, either way, this setup is 4ohm, if you have different speakers then you'll have to let me know so I can modify this. I setup it up this way because more after market decks accept 4-8ohm speakers, so a 2 ohm setup most decks won't accept. You'll have to check your radio to see, usually it's listed in the specifications for your radio. I can go into all the ohm and wiring setups later once you provide more info on your speakers and deck.... Anyways though... here's the pic... for how I would wire it...

Wiring%20tweeters.JPG
 
Hi,

Bringing an old one post to life again due to my not so savy experience with sound.

So, the previous owner of this car(svtkev) had a nice setup in the car, but i didn't buy it with all the equipment.

So what was left in the car is the following:

F/R Infinity speakers and also, wired at the pillars Infinity tweeters.

The headunit i got is this one:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Photos/Default.aspx?i=130DEHP470&g=300

Which has a built-in amp.

Now, i know that i can bypass the ford amp behind the glove-box compartment, which i am doing tomorrow, but aside that, i want to wire these tweeters i have in the pillars to the radio or the front speaker splices as i read in my searching posts.

What i did today was this: wire, as a test, the tweeter on the left pillar to the left front connections at the back of my HU and when i do that, i get no sound whatsoever from the speakers (all of them).

Some of you may say, well...did you make sure you connected the right wires and such? Yes and i tested every option, even disconnecting the factory speaker amp connector and just the tweeter and no sound but when i disconnect the wires from the tweeter, the speakers work just fine.

My question, as i am new and learning about sound and such, from your experience (all) what do you recommend me do?

By the way, i don't know what model these Infinity tweeters are but i know that they ahve a resistor thingy to the sides of it, which is a crossover or filter, so the best buy install guy said, which makes it good to connect to the radio and try.

I am trying to be cheap, honestly, on the setup, i am not a huge sound guy but i figured if those tweeters are there, might as well set them up, hehe.

Any thoughts on this or recommendations? If you have any questions, let me know.

Thanks.
 
Sounds like your radio may be going into protect mode, if your wiring up your tweeters along with your regular speakers, your dropping the ohms and the radio isn't liking it and shutting itself off.
If you want to simply check to see if they work, simply tap a battery AA, AAA, 9v etc to the wires. If you hear a "tic" sound they are working.
 
CarpePoon said:
Sounds like your radio may be going into protect mode, if your wiring up your tweeters along with your regular speakers, your dropping the ohms and the radio isn't liking it and shutting itself off.
If you want to simply check to see if they work, simply tap a battery AA, AAA, 9v etc to the wires. If you hear a "tic" sound they are working.
Click to expand...

A tic doesn't necessarily mean they are working.... You should also use a multimeter and meter out the resistance of the speaker and verify that it matches the resisitance on the back of the speaker.... so if the speaker says it's 4 ohm, you should have a reading of around 4 ohms on your meter... if it reads 1. something... you tweet is probably toast... Where is

For the most part, if the tweets have their passive cross-overs already I'd suggest running the fronts in series with the tweets, prevent low ohm loading the radio and blowing it up... get a 4 channel which can handle 2 ohms loads and then you could hook the fronts in parallel... assuming they are both 4 ohm speakers...
 
So,

it seems that i will be needing an amp for this to work.

sigh, hehe, oh well.
 
CSVT_2004 said:
A tic doesn't necessarily mean they are working....
Click to expand...
I guess what I was going for was verfying that the wire leads actually are connected correctly to the tweeter and there is not a short etc... If you hear a tic, Then you should hear music when you power it. All these questions of "is my amplifier blown?" "I dont hear music". "do I have a short?" etc can be answered with a 9v battery and process of elimination.:eek:
 
Update,

I took out the factory amp and did the wiring to the bypass harness for the speakers...typical setup by all of you here, wow, what a difference.

While there, i tried the tweeters and nothing, yep, it seems that an amp is the way to get these to work.

bleh, hehe, just to run these tweeters, what is the lowest and budget-wise choice for an amp to go with? I figure to ask this as i am as dumb as a knife when it comes to amps, hehe.
 
naujcdl said:
Update,

I took out the factory amp and did the wiring to the bypass harness for the speakers...typical setup by all of you here, wow, what a difference.

While there, i tried the tweeters and nothing, yep, it seems that an amp is the way to get these to work.

bleh, hehe, just to run these tweeters, what is the lowest and budget-wise choice for an amp to go with? I figure to ask this as i am as dumb as a knife when it comes to amps, hehe.
Click to expand...

Are you sure they even work? like I said... you should be able to run them off the HU if do them in series..... Just start looking at 4-channels... the whole... what do you think is a good brand... is kinda of a whole beast in it's self... and that starts ridiculous flame wars when people can't compromise... if you have a fav brand... start looking them up...
 
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