Zetec lost compression

[Lavell]

Hello All,

I'm new to the forum. I'm very impressed that a forum exist just for Ford Contours. I'm very happy to be a part of it. But I do have a serious problem with my car as outlined in my sig. I hope you all can help as I'm completely lost and really want my car to run.

Sometime in September this year, I was driving home from the gym one day. All of a sudden, I started to lose power and speed. I pressed my foot on the accelerator, but was still dropping power and speed. I came to a gradual stop on the side of the highway. I got towed to my house and the tow truck guy told me that my timing belt was broke. As a result, the timing was off. I popped the hood and remove the timing belt covers and found that the timing belt was still intact. Since then, I haven't been able to start my car. I've been troubleshooting this problem for the last 2 weeks and have not been successful in fixing it. So far, I've done the following:

Replaced the battery & cables,
Replaced the alternator,
Replaced the starter,
Replaced the spark plugs & wires,
Replaced the crankshaft position sensor,
Checked all fuses and electrical connections. All are good.
Had the ignition coil pack tested at a local Auto Zone. The coil pack passed.
Inspected the fuel pump. Everything checks out and it does work. There was fuel in the lines. Spark plugs were wet with fuel. Black burned marks were present at the tip of the spark plugs. That tells me that I'm getting spark.

When I turn the key to the "start" position, I hear the starter motor running normally. The accessory drive belt turns as well as the timing belt. For some reason, the engine won't turn over. When I thought my timing was off, I turned the crankshaft pulley manually just to make sure that the timing belt was still intact and it is. So there's no indication of a engine lock-up.

If you guys think that I've missed something, please let me know. I've thought of everything possible that would prevent the car from starting and tried to fix the problem. All of my efforts have failed.

I don't consider myself an expert mechanic. But I know how to do basic maintenance to keep the car running. I've had this car since 1998 and it's been good to me. I own the title and would like to keep it running. If you guys can point me in the right direction and help me fix this BIG problem, I would really appreciate it very much. Thank you for any information you can provide.:help:

P. S. Is it possible for the PCM to fail as a result of a loss of power as I've described? This is the only piece of equipment that I haven't checked on yet. Besides Ford, can a local auto parts store test the PCM? If so, who?

If you need more information, please let me know and I will provide it. Thanks again.

 

[98SVTC]

Hello All,

I'm new to the forum.

So far, I've done the following:

Replaced the battery & cables,
Replaced the alternator,
Replaced the starter,
Replaced the spark plugs & wires,
Replaced the crankshaft position sensor,
Checked all fuses and electrical connections. All are good.
Had the ignition coil pack tested at a local Auto Zone. The coil pack passed.
Inspected the fuel pump. Everything checks out and it does work. There was fuel in the lines. Spark plugs were wet with fuel. Black burned marks were present at the tip of the spark plugs. That tells me that I'm getting spark.

When I turn the key to the "start" position, I hear the starter motor running normally. The accessory drive belt turns as well as the timing belt. For some reason, the engine won't turn over. When I thought my timing was off, I turned the crankshaft pulley manually just to make sure that the timing belt was still intact and it is. So there's no indication of a engine lock-up.

It might have been better to make this a new post as it may turn out that you're problem is unrelated to the OP's post but anyway.......

If everything is working as you say, the only idea that jumps out at me is the fuel pressure regulator went bad. The plugs could be drowning in fuel thereby not firing. If that is the case, and you get the engine started, you may want to change your oil as a good amount of gas may have gotten into the oil pan from your attempts to start the engine. Did you smell gas fumes before the engine originally quit?
Karl

 

[Lavell]

Ok. I'll check on the fuel regulator. I don't recall smelling any gas fumes when the car originally died on me. However, there was steam coming out of the engine compartment, telling me that the car had overheated. I was near a Wal-Mart store when the car died, so I walked there to get a bottle of pre-mixed antifreeze/coolant. As I was pouring coolant into the reservoir, I heard a leak. I looked under the car and sure enough, the same coolant that I was pouring in was leaking onto the ground. That tells me that I got a hole in the cooling system somewhere. But that's another project to worry about. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think this would prevent the car from starting.

If everything is working as you say, the only idea that jumps out at me is the fuel pressure regulator went bad. The plugs could be drowning in fuel thereby not firing. If that is the case, and you get the engine started, you may want to change your oil as a good amount of gas may have gotten into the oil pan from your attempts to start the engine. Did you smell gas fumes before the engine originally quit?
Karl

 

[98SVTC]

Ok. I'll check on the fuel regulator. I don't recall smelling any gas fumes when the car originally died on me. However, there was steam coming out of the engine compartment, telling me that the car had overheated. I was near a Wal-Mart store when the car died, so I walked there to get a bottle of pre-mixed antifreeze/coolant. As I was pouring coolant into the reservoir, I heard a leak. I looked under the car and sure enough, the same coolant that I was pouring in was leaking onto the ground. That tells me that I got a hole in the cooling system somewhere. But that's another project to worry about. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think this would prevent the car from starting.

Well, steam just means hot coolant leaking into the atmosphere, not necessarily overheating. The only way I can think of a coolant leak keeping you from starting the engine is if coolant got into an electrical connection somewhere when it first leaked out.
Karl

 

[rollinstylee]

Well there's your problem (probably).

If your car overheated, you could have blown the head gasket. Blown head gasket=no compression in the cylinder(s) where it blew and could prevent the engine from starting. Have a compression test done.

 

[Lavell]

Wow! This is serious!! I hope this isn't the case. When the car originally died, there was no coolant in the reservoir. But there was some in there before I started driving the car that particular day.

I just got off the phone with my father. He believes that the timing is off. I told him that the timing belt isn't broke. He tells me that it doesn't have to break. He says if the timing belt is stretched even a half an inch, it's enough to throw the timing off.

I have to admit that I had that timing belt since the factory. Also, even though the tensioner is on, if I were to put in a serious effort to remove the timing belt without releasing the tensioner, I could probably do it. And I know that the timing belt has to be just as tight as the drive belt. And it isn't.

Another question: On the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets, there are 2 white dots on each sprocket. What position do these dots have to be in order for #1 piston to be at TDC?

Well there's your problem (probably).

If your car overheated, you could have blown the head gasket. Blown head gasket=no compression in the cylinder(s) where it blew and could prevent the engine from starting. Have a compression test done.

 

[98SVTC]

Well there's your problem (probably).

If your car overheated, you could have blown the head gasket. Blown head gasket=no compression in the cylinder(s) where it blew and could prevent the engine from starting. Have a compression test done.

Let's not get carried away. Just because there was steam doesn't mean anything except there was a coolant leak into the atmosphere. Besides, engines run with blown head gaskets most all of the time. It's doubtful that even if the gasket was blown it would affect all cylinders. Run a compression test if you feel like it but look at the fuel pressure regulator as well.
Karl

 

[Lavell]

I fixed the timing issue. The car still won't start. No auto parts store with my area has the fuel pressure regulator, so I had to order one. I should have it by Saturday. I will post here with my results.

I do have a question: I've learned that on the 1996 - 2000 Contours, Ford decided to get rid of the ignition control module and integrated the duties of the ICM over to the powertrain control module. If my car died on me the way I described it in my first post, could it be a possibility that the PCM failed on me and as a result, the car slowed and stopped, then refusing to start again?

 

[Tony2005]

I fixed the timing issue. The car still won't start. No auto parts store with my area has the fuel pressure regulator, so I had to order one. I should have it by Saturday. I will post here with my results.

I do have a question: I've learned that on the 1996 - 2000 Contours, Ford decided to get rid of the ignition control module and integrated the duties of the ICM over to the powertrain control module. If my car died on me the way I described it in my first post, could it be a possibility that the PCM failed on me and as a result, the car slowed and stopped, then refusing to start again?

Welcome.

First check if there is "juice" going to the PCM. Turn on the car, is the CEL lighted for a few seconds?

If yes, then maybe the timing is off.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=105

If timing is not off, maybe you lost compression due to "washout". Push gas pedal all the way down and crank. If it doesn't start, then try removing two spark plugs, put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, replace SP and crank again.

 

[AliasJerk]

I really think you are having timing issues.

at 103K miles my old tour's belt went, but it doesnt necessarily mean that the belt "failed" one of your tensioners/idlers could have fallen apart and loosened slack on the belt, enough to the point where the belt doesnt break, but it jumps off and slips timing, your motor wont run with bad timing, the way you described the problem it sounded exactly like a failed timing belt. So i think thats what you need to look into.

 

[Lavell]

Welcome.

First check if there is "juice" going to the PCM. Turn on the car, is the CEL lighted for a few seconds?

If yes, then maybe the timing is off.
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=105

If timing is not off, maybe you lost compression due to "washout". Push gas pedal all the way down and crank. If it doesn't start, then try removing two spark plugs, put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, replace SP and crank again.

Yes, the CEL lights up for a few seconds when I turn on the car. I've already ensured that the timing was adjusted correctly as well as replaced the timing belt. Can you please explain what you mean by "lost compression due to washout"?

If this is the case, then I will have to take the car in to get a compression test done as I don't have the tools and resources to conduct one. I will try your suggestion with removing the spark plugs and adding a teaspoon of oil and see what kind of results I get. What am I looking for when I do this?

I really think you are having timing issues.

at 103K miles my old tour's belt went, but it doesnt necessarily mean that the belt "failed" one of your tensioners/idlers could have fallen apart and loosened slack on the belt, enough to the point where the belt doesnt break, but it jumps off and slips timing, your motor wont run with bad timing, the way you described the problem it sounded exactly like a failed timing belt. So i think thats what you need to look into

I've already looked into this. I've checked my tensioner and pulleys. They were fine. I've replaced the timing belt also. However, I do have to put on the the tensioner spring and retaining bolt. I've ordered those parts. They should be in sometime this week.

 

[AliasJerk]

Yes, the CEL lights up for a few seconds when I turn on the car. I've already ensured that the timing was adjusted correctly as well as replaced the timing belt. Can you please explain what you mean by "lost compression due to washout"?

If this is the case, then I will have to take the car in to get a compression test done as I don't have the tools and resources to conduct one. I will try your suggestion with removing the spark plugs and adding a teaspoon of oil and see what kind of results I get. What am I looking for when I do this?



I've already looked into this. I've checked my tensioner and pulleys. They were fine. I've replaced the timing belt also. However, I do have to put on the the tensioner spring and retaining bolt. I've ordered those parts. They should be in sometime this week.

You didnt mention if you had retimed the engine using the Zetec timing kit... Did you just put a new belt on? or did you use the Ford timing kit to retime the motor?

I only beat the hell out of that part of the motor because the zetec is EXTREMELY sensitive to timing sytem overhauls. Ask Starjammir, him and I had to do that DAMN timing belt 6 times before we got the car at the right timing. it would look PERFECT, but when you would crank the car... nothing.

Did you just get a new belt or did you get a whole kit for the timing belt? you should get a whole kit which includes the idlers and the tensioner, if you tried to replace the timing belt without the tool kit to do it, there is a REALLY good chance that the motor is off by 1 or half of a degree. Even this is enough for the motor to not run.

 

[Lavell]

You didnt mention if you had retimed the engine using the Zetec timing kit... Did you just put a new belt on? or did you use the Ford timing kit to retime the motor?

I only beat the hell out of that part of the motor because the zetec is EXTREMELY sensitive to timing sytem overhauls. Ask Starjammir, him and I had to do that DAMN timing belt 6 times before we got the car at the right timing. it would look PERFECT, but when you would crank the car... nothing.

Did you just get a new belt or did you get a whole kit for the timing belt? you should get a whole kit which includes the idlers and the tensioner, if you tried to replace the timing belt without the tool kit to do it, there is a REALLY good chance that the motor is off by 1 or half of a degree. Even this is enough for the motor to not run.

All I did was put on a new belt following the procedures in the Haynes manual I have. Now this brings up a question: I have 2 white dots on the outer rim of each camshaft sprocket. The exhaust camshaft sprocket has a 3rd white dot on the inner rim. What position do these dots have to be in order for the #1 cylinder to be at TDC?

 

[AliasJerk]

All I did was put on a new belt following the procedures in the Haynes manual I have. Now this brings up a question: I have 2 white dots on the outer rim of each camshaft sprocket. The exhaust camshaft sprocket has a 3rd white dot on the inner rim. What position do these dots have to be in order for the #1 cylinder to be at TDC?

Has nothing to do with the dots, there are slits on the driver side of the cam shafts, those slits are where the camshaft alignment tool goes. Your timing is DEFINITELY off if thats how you replaced the belt go by the procedure I linked you too below, and I suggest going to zxtuner.com and picking up a Zetec timing kit.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/c6/93/0900823d801bc693/repairInfoPages.htm

 

[Tony2005]

Yes..... Can you please explain what you mean by "lost compression due to washout"?

If this is the case, then I will have to take the car in to get a compression test done as I don't have the tools and resources to conduct one. I will try your suggestion with removing the spark plugs and adding a teaspoon of oil and see what kind of results I get. What am I looking for when I do this?

...

If you flooded the engine or after a "major" repair, there just isn't enough "viscosity" in the cylinder to seal and then compress the vapor for ignition. With the oil, you are helping to seal the cylinder. The engine probably sounds like it is turning very fast now (but not firing up).

 

[Lavell]

I apologize for not posting here in a while. I was out of town. But I'm back now with a chance to work on the car. Here are my findings:

Kragen Auto Parts ordered the wrong fuel pressure regulator. So I went to Auto Zone to order a new one. As soon as I get it and test it, I'll post my results.

I readjusted the timing with the camshaft alignment tool and ensured that the crankshaft was at TDC via the markings on the crankshaft pulley and the oil pan.

I tried the "remove spark plugs and putting oil in the cylinder" trick and the car wants to start. As I was cranking the engine, smoke came from the exhaust tailpipe. The smoke smelled like fuel. Also, there was smoke (or steam; I'm not sure) coming from the coolant reservoir. Keep in mind that with a leak somewhere (I think it's at the radiator) in the cooling system, the car can not hold any coolant. So I added water temporary to see if the car will start. But the car does not turn over.

At this point, I believe that I do have a compression problem. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If this is the case, how do I fix it? I don't believe I've blown a head gasket because if I did, I would have heard some sort of knocking in the block and I don't hear that.

My next question is how does coolant (or lack thereof) play a part in the engine turning over? I know that coolant keeps the engine cool. I'm asking this question because this engine has a lot of sensors and I'm thinking that with the lack of coolant, one of the sensors is telling the PCM not to start the engine. Can anyone shed some light on this?:help:

 

[striker2]

the engine will start no matter what the coolant level is (unless of course its all leaked into the cylinders). do a compression test on it to verify that you do indeed have compression. also use the timing pin to set TDC not the marks on the pulley and pan.

 

[Lavell]

I got this timing kit from ZXtuner.com

http://www.zxtuner.com/product.sc?categoryId=24&productId=191

and I wasn't sure how to use the TDC peg. I know it's for the crankshaft. Where do I screw this?

the engine will start no matter what the coolant level is (unless of course its all leaked into the cylinders). do a compression test on it to verify that you do indeed have compression. also use the timing pin to set TDC not the marks on the pulley and pan.

 

[striker2]

there is a small 8 or 10mm (i cant remember) bolt on the radiator side of the block just above the oil pan by cylinder 4. take that bolt out, install the pin (by hand only), slowly turn the crank until it stops on the pin. you are now at TDC

 

[Lavell]

Thanks a ton for this info! It's dark outside now, so I will try this first thing in the morning.