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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

Geez I just can't win. Apparently after BPE Racing started working with Manley they found out that they don't have any valve blanks for their severe duty series that would work for the Duratec as they are all too short in length. The 3L valves are as follows for dimensions...

Int - 1.378" x 4.510" x .235" (35.0MM x 114.5MM x 6.0MM)​
Exh - 1.181" x 4.546" x .235" (30.0MM x 115.5MM x 6.0MM)

Now it looks like I'm off to another valve source. Perhaps Ferrea will have some blanks that will work.
​
 
Score number two for the Noble Forums...

USA48M12 @ NobleForums said:
Talk to Scott at Ferrea. They have a nice set of intakes/exhaust and springs for this 3.0 L application. If you go with custom cam grinds, watch your base circle dimensions and the potential need to deal with valve lash issues.
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i've seen most of this stuff. its not on the table anymore but it needs to get put together! i cant wait to help put this thing in (you better call me!)
 
greasemonkey1489 said:
Do you have your shortblock built up already or are the parts still on your dining room table?
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Haha my wife would kill me if it was all on the dining room table... although I did just bring all of my wax's, polish's, wheel cleaner's, etc in out of the garage and currently have them on the dining room table. Didn't want ~$100 worth of car detailing products to freeze in the beloved MN winter. Need to find a home for it.

Anyway I haven't built the short block because I want everything to go in at once. I don't want to build the short block and then 2-3 months later put the heads on, then 2 months later have it fire up. I'd like to know that everything is well lubricated and ready to roll when I drop it in and fire it up. Like I said this thing will be broken in on the dyno. So ideally I'd assembly the engine 2-5 days before I take the car up to be tuned and dynoed.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Score number two for the Noble Forums...
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phew... well looks like $1350 later I'll have myself a set of valves that will be good for 2000degF. Got a hold of Scott at Ferrea and after some digging he found the info on the valve and spring order he did for the customer with the Noble. Apparently they did a lot of work for a company called Smooth Lines out of Neveda. I'm going with the triple groove retainers though so it won't be as extreme. I'll be sending them a set of valves later this week. Might take a while to get everything built as I wasn't planning on dropping that much cash on the valvetrain, but eh, power and speed cost money I guess. So the project just may be stretched out longer. I did find another option with Kibblewhite for about $950. I may yet pursue that as well.
 
Sub'd!! I wanna see this thing at SZ11!!!

I always have liked you're car, this is gonna be an epic build. When you're finished with her I want a ride, if it's not a SZ11 I guess we got to make our way out by you next year. Good luck man!!
 
Thanks for bringing this back up and reminding me to post an update.

BPE Racing finally got responses back from their various valve suppliers and got me their pricing and such. However after talking with a reputable Noble builder he told me that my stock Ford valves and beehive springs should be good for at least 650hp. So that's good news as it will save me about $800. $800 of which I can spend towards fabricating/buying suspension parts. Since winter is just about here I've changed gears a little bit. I'm now focusing on body work and suspension fabs I can do. Over the next few weeks I plan to break some ground on my traction bar setup. Since I had very little response from Full-Race Motorsports I'm pretty much on my own, which isn't anything new. I've pretty much got in my head what I want to build and how it will integrate with the cars chassis so it shouldn't take me long once I start making measurements. Really just need to pick up some steel plate and tube stock and start welding.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Thanks for bringing this back up and reminding me to post an update.

BPE Racing finally got responses back from their various valve suppliers and got me their pricing and such. However after talking with a reputable Noble builder he told me that my stock Ford valves and beehive springs should be good for at least 650hp.
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It's not so much power level specifically, but its EGTs and rpm limits that will cause you trouble with the stock valves. Keep your EGTs (between the port and the turbo) below 1600F and you should be just fine, and keept he rpm limit within a few hundred of stock, and you shouldn't have any piston to valve contact issues either.
 
Rara said:
It's not so much power level specifically, but its EGTs and rpm limits that will cause you trouble with the stock valves. Keep your EGTs (between the port and the turbo) below 1600F and you should be just fine, and keept he rpm limit within a few hundred of stock, and you shouldn't have any piston to valve contact issues either.
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Your dead on, as always ;) I guess I should have been more specific, I made the assumption that higher horsepower on the Noble's with their high boost pressures equated to high temps and people knew that. I plan to keep my Rev limiter set to somewhere between 7200-7500rpm. My hope is that running about 18-20psi for a max boost pressure only at high speeds will keep me out of trouble with my EGT's. As of right now I'm potentially going to set my HKS boost controller to something along these lines...

boostmap.png
 
SHOgoFast said:
You could probably ramp that up even slower...16lbs at ~40mph will be a tire roaster for sure.
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I agree. On my Dad's old motor (The one that made 35X whp/35Xwtq) at only 7.5psi it would spin the tires with ease with any throttle in 2nd (55mph) and if you mashed it in 3rd it would spin.

I would say keep it below 10psi under 60 mph.

What size tire are you thinking about running?
 
bhiggs89 said:
What size tire are you thinking about running?
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I'm going to do some modifications to the fenders (wide flare, fiberglass replacement fenders) and see if with some spacers I can fit 315/35ZR17 Nitto NT01's under there.

I think it may look pretty funny though. However that's why I want to try and hide it from the world with essentially wide body fender flares, which I would have to make in the back as well to make it match up. I've got it all sketch out. Pretty much doing the same thing as I did with my Camaro build back in the day. I sketched out the car, went over a few concepts, and then made it happen. All of it is just concept of course, but that is my current goal. Things may change however that is what I am striving towards.

kind of something along these lines...

rs9.jpg
 
so you are going to try to stuff a tire that is almost an inch larger in diameter and ~100mm wider than stock under a Contour? all I have to say is good luck, I know Jaged is running 275s on his auto-x car and the wheels/tires stick well out past the fender as it is.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Your dead on, as always ;) I guess I should have been more specific, I made the assumption that higher horsepower on the Noble's with their high boost pressures equated to high temps and people knew that. I plan to keep my Rev limiter set to somewhere between 7200-7500rpm. My hope is that running about 18-20psi for a max boost pressure only at high speeds will keep me out of trouble with my EGT's. As of right now I'm potentially going to set my HKS boost controller to something along these lines...
Click to expand...

Not a bad plan, but keep in mind, boost is only one component that will affect EGTs. Fuel and timing are even bigger factors. By playing with fuel and timing especially, your tuner can keep the EGTs in check, even if you crank the boost earlier. Its very easy to add extra fuel to cool the chamber and lower EGTs, and advancing timing generally will lower EGTs (within reason) while retarding timing can raise EGTs too. Just like anything, its all a big balancing act to get the sweet spot where you want it.
 
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