jolly8286
Hard-core CEG'er
He has a carbon fiber roof.
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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin
- Thread starter CSVT#49
- Start date
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
bensenvill
Hard-core CEG'er
ya ya ya, thats all good and stuff but when are you getting back to posting about the motor 
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
ya ya ya, thats all good and stuff but when are you getting back to posting about the motor
I'm not going to start putting the motor back together until it has a place to go when I'm finished building it. I have all of the parts I just don't want it sitting on a stand for a long period of time. If I put everything together once I had it the engine would have been assembled on a stand about 5 months ago... and it would still be waiting for a home.
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
I found what I was thinking of... on the 3.5L engines with VVT the oil pump mounts differently. They also mount the water pump on the inside of the timing cover. Here is a picture of it. As for the Mazda 3L that has VVT, it calls for the same oil pump as the std 3L Duratec (according to RockAuto and other auto part websites), which tells me there is nothing different about it.
I am looking at using this...
Pole120
Addicted CEG'er
Jimp...
crewchiefpro
Hard-core CEG'er
There is not alot of room to mount a dry sump tank with a turbo. Where do you think the tank would fit? My guess is you will have to fabricate a tank that is form fitted to the useable space.
The good news is a dry sump can act like a vacuum pump also, which on my race engine is good for 40 HP. It will help to eliminate any oil leaks.
The good news is a dry sump can act like a vacuum pump also, which on my race engine is good for 40 HP. It will help to eliminate any oil leaks.
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
My thought is right now to relocate the washer fluid bottle to where the battery used to be. I'd cut a hole in the inner fender for the washer bottle spout and then mount the bottle underneath. I would then re-route the lines from the driver side for the sprayers. Then I would mount an oil tank where the washer bottle used to be on the passenger side.
wadespencer99
CEG'er
The washer bottle on a Focus mounts under the fender. That could be an option as well.
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
Ugh... well they are charging $1800 for the dry sump kit, then I would still need to fabricate the tank. This may be more then I care to spend.
Klasky24
CEG'er
The man building the car with no limits has reached a limit? Lol, in all seriousness, that is incredibly expensive, not sure the advantages are worth the money, even on this car.
Pole120
Addicted CEG'er
Well, I WAS thinking about it. F that S.
FastFord
Hard-core CEG'er
How about NOOOOOOOOOOOOO.
Cant you just run an accusump for like $300? Or does that not do the same thing?
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
I wouldn't say no limits! I just don't like to cut corners. It's the reason why my car still isn't finished. It takes time to set money a side to pay for these parts. I don't have money flowing out of my pockets... it's the reason why I didn't buy the Porsche 911 Turbo I wanted. I didn't want to be strapped to a high car payment every month. With this project it's a pay as you go until it's finished
I'm currently working with Terry Haines on my transmission. Another reason why I haven't started reassembling the powertrain. I'm looking into the possibility of having the gears coated/baked with a cermaic/moly coating. This would provide a little more of a cushion to the torque that is going to be flowing through the gears. Plus I'm investigating a pump/cooler oiling system for the trans to help cool down the oil and the gears. Similar to what is done on the differentials of race cars.
Yea kind of what I'm thinking... I'm exploring other options, but it is what it is I guess.
No. I've been somewhat concerned with maintaining oil pressure on the engine. I currently have a stock oil pump and I'm asking it to feed both a turbo and oil squirters in addition to it's normal duties. I fear that this extra strain on the oiling system will cause a pressure drop. An accusump only provides a momentary relief to pressure loss. It will dump in 1-3qts worth of oil into the engine at the same pressure as the oil was when your engine was last shut off. It then needs time to recharge, so to speak, it's oil capacity. This would not be a means of controlling a low pressure problem on an engine.
Klasky24
CEG'er
Yeah I understand, but by the same token, this is definitely monumental as far as contour build standards are concerned. For the majority of the contour community, myself included, the things talked about and completed in this build thread are only dreamed of. Still cannot wait. I want to see a post in the pics and vids section "A god is Born" with a video of it starting for the first time. And then driving videos and tons of pictures of course.
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
bensenvill
Hard-core CEG'er
the problem is: is it worth the investment in addressing an engine design that has had quite a bit of oiling issues for various reasons for price + added complexity.
personally I would side heavily with the dry sump over seperate turbo system as its a tested design (personally I would also forgo the custom tank for tapping a beer keg in the trunk to really give it some oil cooling capacity), although while "tested", I still would only trust stress testing it on a stockish motor. My 2 cents, I think the dry setup is a pretty big deal but can't put my money where my mouth is (and again personally with the price of long blocks for our car would get a better ROI keeping stock blocks and budgeting for replacing them at least once a year than a crazy build.... sorry just the cost of 3L is so damn cheap).
So are you doing Swain for the coatings? Lately I've seen a lot of love for their crank shaft low friction coating. Also have you ever looked into any of the cryro stuff? I use to work next to one of the big players in the industry and have had some very lengthy conversations.... I don't consider their work to be snake oil.
personally I would side heavily with the dry sump over seperate turbo system as its a tested design (personally I would also forgo the custom tank for tapping a beer keg in the trunk to really give it some oil cooling capacity), although while "tested", I still would only trust stress testing it on a stockish motor. My 2 cents, I think the dry setup is a pretty big deal but can't put my money where my mouth is (and again personally with the price of long blocks for our car would get a better ROI keeping stock blocks and budgeting for replacing them at least once a year than a crazy build.... sorry just the cost of 3L is so damn cheap).
So are you doing Swain for the coatings? Lately I've seen a lot of love for their crank shaft low friction coating. Also have you ever looked into any of the cryro stuff? I use to work next to one of the big players in the industry and have had some very lengthy conversations.... I don't consider their work to be snake oil.
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CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
All good points. However unfortunately my block isn't just a $400 junkyard prize to be had anywhere. I had to send it out to have the oil squirters machined and installed, a $360 venture IIRC (I'd have to go back through my receipts, I'm sure it's in this thread too). So I'd be roughly $1000 into a replacement if need be... still less then the dry sump kit. I'm not ruling it out, I'm just not sold on it yet. I still need to do some talking to a few key Noble owners I know to get their input on it.