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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

Then yea you should be good. If you are going to have multiple tunes one for 93 and another for E85 you may not actually lose that much on the E85 because when they tune they will be able to add alot more timing with no harm so you should be good
 
Just a few thoughts I've had in reading the last several pages:

1: the porsche 968 Turbo S used a pump/cooler oiling setup to wring the last bit of strenght from the VW designed rear transaxel for the 400+hp tubo 3.0 I4 they'd developed. something you might want to investigate for ideas

2: a benefit of the separate oiling system for the turbo that nobody has mentioned is that it separates the turbo's oil supply from the dirty crap in the oil pan, and visa versa. so if one end fails from a bit of debris in the oil system, you dont loose everything. would also allow for two, smaller, oil coolers in different locations to keep the lube temps down. you are using an oil cooled turbo right?

3: on the intercooler side of things, has anyone considered using the CryoFuzion interfreezer? like the water/air, it is a limited use item, and would need to be paired with an air/air intercooler, but it might allow for a smaller intercooler, and the co2 purged from the interfreezer could be routed to a intercooler sprayer...

like you said, you dont plan to run it at 500+hp all the time, so at the lower boost levels, the normal air/air intercooler would do the trick.

(ps, I'm not talking about the DEI design, their exchanger clearly wouldnt exchange enough heat to prove worth while, even if it is less restrictive)

you could also add some N2O, as that would also cool down the inlet temps considerably...
 
Gutted the Cougar transmission today. Going to have CrazyTalkSVT blast it for me. Then I'm going to clear coat the housing to maintain the beauty of the bare aluminum... or at least make it so it can be washed clean easily. All the pit holes in the aluminum suck up grease, oil, what have you, like mad. I'll shoot some pictures and post them tomorrow morning before I take it over for the blast work so there can be some before/after pics.
 
why not shoot it with a silver or blue to match the exterior? just a thought.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Last time I checked bare aluminum was silver...

I don't need more blue as my engine bay is already matched
Click to expand...

when you shoot it with clear it will dull the silver to a gray, even with gloss clear, just ask B .
plus if its completely gutted you could just have it powder coated and you would never have to worry.
but make sure to have it covered ASAP after the blasting to avoid corrosion.
not trying to be preechy, but where i work im training to be a tech and these are the things im learning lol
if it does go long before coating just scrub it down with dionized water and bake it or let it sit in the sun and it will expell all the corrosion from the aluminum, then use a course pant brush to scrub the aluminum off....
just trying to help :)
 
When did you become a mod? :)

think it will get done before the snow starts to fall this year...and have enough time to enjoy it a little bit before it is put away?
 
zoop is for polished aluminum. I dont think it would be an improvement over clear coat. I think the best bet is bead blast the crap out of it and then have it powdercoated with high quality silica based clear powder coat.

do the engine parts to match.

because show car
 
i am aware that it's intended for polished aluminum, however i don't see any reason why it wouldn't work for this application. i've seen it used on brushed aluminum and it held up very well.
 
everything I've read about says it's cloudy which would make the metal dull/greyish just like clear paint would.

clear silica based powder coat would not do that at all, and would probably be a fair bit tougher in terms of abrasion, but probably not against impact damage...
 
elraido said:
When did you become a mod? :)

think it will get done before the snow starts to fall this year...and have enough time to enjoy it a little bit before it is put away?
Click to expand...

Just a few days ago. Figured I'd try to contribute a little bit more to the forums since I'm on here enough.

That is the goal. It definitely needs to be painted and the carbon fiber parts finished. I can still build the engine over the winter if need be, but when I get to the engine it should only take a weekend. As I have everything I need for that. Last winter I focused on getting the engine parts I needed, getting the cylinder heads to where I wanted them, and working on what needed to happen for the axles. I wanted to use this summer to prep the car and paint it then finish all my work on the carbon fiber parts I want to do. Because during the winter I can not work on those aspects of the build. If it doesn't come together by this winter... then I will focus on building the engine and getting the transmission where I want it. I don't mind installing the powertrain during the winter as I can heat the garage to a reasonable temperature. I could then fire it up as well. Work on the tune myself a little bit to ensure that it is running properly. Then once spring came around I could drive it for the break in period. After which I would take it over to DB performance. However I'm not willing to throw in the towel yet. I still have 2 1/2 months to get it done.

KAOS_3.0 said:
zoop is for polished aluminum. I dont think it would be an improvement over clear coat. I think the best bet is bead blast the crap out of it and then have it powdercoated with high quality silica based clear powder coat.

do the engine parts to match.

because show car
Click to expand...

I'll have to look into this zoop seal... polishing the trans might not be a bad idea... just time consuming, which at this point I don't think I have that kind of time. The housing is off getting blasted this week so I should see it back maybe by this weekend. This car is not (well in my book anyway) a show car. I'm building it to drive and enjoy. I don't think you see many show cars at race tracks :laugh: As for the powder coat... yea maybe I've thought about powder coating it in chrome and then clearing it, but I don't know if I want to take it that far. I think the dull silver will surfice. I just want it to look clean and well taken care of. Something like what Trek has going with his Mondeo. I plan to do the same thing with the engine block and heads.
 
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yeah clean oem and well maintained is usually my goal for under the hood aesthetics, but I'd say you've gone a bit further than that already.

you should have someone polish your ST200 UIM as well. theres a ton of guys on NECO that polish UIMs...

[edit] if you've seen nadthethomas or whatever his name is's engine pic on neco, I think that engine color schem would look especially nice with the blue. theres a J35 swapped TL type S on acurazine that has the polished/gold PC theme on a similar blue car with gold rims and it looks amazing...

I'll try to find you some links when I get homw, but my break is about over...
 
Well I will be powder coating my intake manifold chrome like I did on my SVT UIM. I haven't completely decided what I am going to do with the valve covers and pulleys though. I may do gold... don't know though.
 
Well I decided just to clear the transmission housing just as I had initially planned. I didn't really care to sit there and polish the housing with all of the fins and cavities... it would have taken me a year. In any case... here are the pics. Big thanks to CrazytalkSVT for doing the blast work for me (if you ever need something blasted hes your guy)

front2te.jpg

rearn.jpg

sidenw.jpg

bellhousing.jpg


Also hit the tower too. Not sure if I'm going to keep it this way... but I wanted it not to stick out.

tower1x.jpg

tower2j.jpg


And for comparison...

compareshrunk.jpg
 
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