#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

[troll96se]

how much do new tanks go for? its one of the parts i havent run past my parts counter guy yet.

 

[CSVT#49]

how much do new tanks go for? its one of the parts i havent run past my parts counter guy yet.

Well I think the tanks are discontinued... don't quote me on that though. I bought it from an eBay auction. It's from a company out of WI that supposedly purchased all of what Ford had on hand.

Also placed an order in with McMaster Carr for 1/2" and 3/8" stainless steel tubing. When I go out to my folks place for Derby Day tomorrow I'll be grabbing his 37deg flaring tool so I can complete the hard lines for my supply and return.

Now the task at hand is finding a good low cost source for the AN fittings and PTFE hose I need. The running list is below...

QTY / Description
4 / AN-10 ORB to AN-08 fitting
1 / AN-08 bulkhead fitting
1 / AN-06 bulkhead fitting
1 / AN-06 ORB fitting
2 / AN-08 tube nut
2 / AN-06 tube nut
2 / AN-08 straight hose end fittings
1 / AN-08 straight adapter
1 / AN-08 90deg hose end fitting
1 / AN-06 90deg hose end fitting
6ft / PTFE stainless steel braided AN-08 hose
6ft / PTFE stainless steel braided AN-06 hose

 

[CSVT#49]

Another note... anyone looking to flare stainless steel lines... I highly recommend buying a really good flaring tool. I just picked up the Ridgid 41162 377 ratcheting flare tool. It widely received excellent reviews across the internet car forums. Hopefully the masses knew what they were talking about. Ridgid's website even stated that it is well suited for flaring steel and stainless steel lines. Typically the el cheapo flaring tools $50 or less are designed for soft materials like copper or aluminum.

 

[CSVT#49]

Alright after about 3 days of debating and researching, and debating, and more researching... I have FINALLY ordered the needed parts to assembly my fuel hoses. I've read all over the internet about E85 and the lines that people use. Multiple people have stated that using standard racing hoses and OEM rubber lines are a no no as over time the alcohols in E85 pull moisture and causes rubber lines to crack just as well as E85 is corrosive and eats it away. Aerospace industries set the bar back in the day with AN fittings and CPE hose, but due to regulations and routine maintenance these hoses are replaced. So while using these hoses in the automotive industry has picked up over the years with the continuous/infinite use expectations they would not survive and would need replacing about every 4-5 years as they would break down with the use of alcohol based fuels. However even before they were replaced these hoses often would allow the fuel vapor to leach out of the hose causing the garage or cabin of the car to reek with the smell of fuel. Then came the PTFE lines, which everyone swears by for use with alcohol based fuels. However PTFE lines are expensive and the high end lines provide a carbon/graphite additive to the Teflon lining. Also there is little regulations around PTFE hoses and most manufactures hoses require their own matching AN fittings. These types of hose, for example, XRP's HS-79 hose runs $32 a foot and the matching AN fittings are $25+ a piece.

I found a couple of places (anfittingsdirect, frozenboost, etc) that sell PTFE hose shaman equipment brand at a stupid low price ($3.49/foot). I questioned the reliability of this PTFE hose and searched on it for quite some time. Responses were all over the board, but reading through all of it everyone that actually bought the product was happy with it's performance. There was some comments about the matching fittings being a little difficult to work with and get seated, but doable. All of the negative comments on the hose came from people that never dealt with the hose or was talking about how their grandma's friend's son used it and had issues. So for over a $200 reduction in price over all other options I bit the bullet last night/this morning at 1:28am and ordered my hoses and AN fittings from anfittingsdirect.com. They however did not sell the o-ring boss (ORB) fittings I needed to hook up to my regulator, filter, and SAE quick connect fittings. I found the lowest cost price site for those parts was JDA enterprises (jdaent.com). They had everything else I need too as well as the crazy expensive parts like the XRP HS-79 hose. I imagine I should get all of these parts by end of next week. When that happens I'll be sure to assembly at least one section of hose and do a pressure test on it to see how good the parts really are and let people make their own decision on the results.

 

[svttour]

in a recent issue of Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords they did a small article on adding 2 E85 pumps into the stock tank. check it out it was a good read.

 

[2000ZxT]

I've been running the SIS (silicone intakes, frozen boost, ect) fuel lines and fittings for years along with many other parts.They are slightly difficult to work with yes because it's a compression pipe fitting, but the material and the seal is superior. The quality is fine. If the fuel components leak or fails it is end user error. I've bought 3 custom fuel line setups from them. Youll be happy with what you bought.

 

[CSVT#49]

in a recent issue of Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords they did a small article on adding 2 E85 pumps into the stock tank. check it out it was a good read.

Yup, I have already read that. That is part of the reason why I felt a little better about running the two pumps on my setup. I found that article when I was trying to determine if the Mustang top hat assembly was similar to ours. They actually did an article on the fuel line aspect among other things when converting to E85.

I've been running the SIS (silicone intakes, frozen boost, ect) fuel lines and fittings for years along with many other parts.They are slightly difficult to work with yes because it's a compression pipe fitting, but the material and the seal is superior. The quality is fine. If the fuel components leak or fails it is end user error. I've bought 3 custom fuel line setups from them. Youll be happy with what you bought.

Good to know that someone on here has some experience and it matches with the other things I have read. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[CrazyTalkSVT]

Another note... anyone looking to flare stainless steel lines... I highly recommend buying a really good flaring tool. I just picked up the Ridgid 41162 377 ratcheting flare tool. It widely received excellent reviews across the internet car forums. Hopefully the masses knew what they were talking about. Ridgid's website even stated that it is well suited for flaring steel and stainless steel lines. Typically the el cheapo flaring tools $50 or less are designed for soft materials like copper or aluminum.

You can have that junk. I'll stick to my Fedhill 007C Line Flaring Tool.

 

[CSVT#49]

You can have that junk. I'll stick to my Fedhill 007C Line Flaring Tool.

For investing over $400... you can have your Fedhill 007C flaring tool. My $110 flaring tool will work just fine. I hope you do a lot of line flaring to pay for that... I'm assuming with all your air suspension and hydraulic work it's probably paid for itself. However for me I can't justify it.

Maybe I should have asked you if I could borrow it before buying mine :laugh:

 

[CSVT#49]

316 Stainless steel lines came in! 50' of 1/2" and 50' of 3/8". Planning on doing AN-08 supply and AN-06 return. So yea... I'm going to have extra line, anyone interested? :laugh:

 

[SVOFANATIC]

wanna make me some brake lines? lol

 

[FastFord]

I think the lines for my accusump project are larger than that, I could double check tho. If they are the same size I would take them

 

[CrazyTalkSVT]

...Maybe I should have asked you if I could borrow it before buying mine :laugh:

This is what I was thinking.

 

[CSVT#49]

wanna make me some brake lines? lol

Lines I have now are a little big for brake lines

I think the lines for my accusump project are larger than that, I could double check tho. If they are the same size I would take them

Let me know and how much you need. I think I'll have about 38' of the 1/2" left over and about the same for the 3/8"

This is what I was thinking.

Well if I use the tool I got and I'm fighting with it maybe I'll take you up on that. However it has really received good reviews by a lot of car forums so knock on wood?

 

[CSVT#49]

UPS delivers fuel line goodness... all I need now are the tube nuts & sleeves, ORB fittings, and bulkhead nuts...

 

[CSVT#49]

Ah this is too funny. So I was searching for stainless steel sheet to build my new top hat assembly and I found it was cheaper to go this route, and it will turn out better too...




Thanks to Schlage this nice looking commercial grade stainless steel entrance kick plate

Will become the new

To house these

 

[bensenvill]

... the kickplate is a positively brilliant idea. Its certainly a price premium but easily available at a wims notice at any DIY store and it does have a fantastic finish to it. (also being a quasi representative of schlang, I can only endorse this new found use). I hope you don't mind if I steal that idea for a couple block-off plates (I think I get them below cost).

 

[CSVT#49]

Not at all. I'm a true believer in sharing knowledge and how-to's for DIY people. Also it's actually not a price premium. It's a cost reduction Discount steel was going to charge me $24 for a 12x12 piece of stainless, I bought this kick plate, which is 8x34, for $17.99 Just had to make sure it was going to work as it's 0.05", which is extremely close to the 0.055" I measured off of the OEM top hat. However that had rust build up on it too, so I'm thinking this is going to be perfect. Especially after I compared it to the part with it side by side.

 

[jaged]

seems like a good option to make new door sill plates for the car as well. hmmmm

 

[CSVT#49]

seems like a good option to make new door sill plates for the car as well. hmmmm

Yea, I would agree with that. However I bought my sill plates from AutoVation Tech a while back from a GB and they are fantastic. I looked at their website and it looks to be a little pricey now at $164 just for a matte finish. They match perfectly with my pedals and heel plate. The pic below was from the GB. I went with a three groove option and I also had them redo the SVT logo I got to match the OEM letter styling. The S was to thin and the V's grove went too low. Amazingly though I never took any pictures of them installed (or if I did I can't find them).