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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

Good to know about the Walbro E85 pump, but I'm already commited to the Stealth 340 since I went ahead and ordered my second one this morning along with my Aeromotive 13101 regulator, regulator pressure gauge, and my 40 micron Aeromotive 12355 in-line filter. If I burn the pumps up in the future that may be something to consider.
 
DanMyers said:
Copied from a thread on bobistheoilguy forum.

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."


EDIT: BTW After I remove an extremely rusted bolt/nut, if I have time, I usually soak it in ATF for a while and the rust usually comes off really well, add in an equal amount of acetone and it looks like it's be even better, always better to reinstall a non-rusted fastener with a little bit of anti-seize IMO.
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interesting, I use waste atf to free siezed hardware all the time, but I just thought I was being cheap ;)
 
No way man, my dad was working a silo in the 80's when he found a snub nosed .38 special from the 40's in the bottom of an uncovered barrel soaking in ATF, who knows for how long but the farm owner had no idea and let my dad keep it, still have it today and it has no rust on it.
 
CrazyTalkSVT said:
Maybe for some people...:laugh:
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Well if you have a die that can replicate all of the nooks and crannies... then maybe, but otherwise no. I suppose you could cut out all of the little pieces and form the tank by welding it all up... but that would just be ludicrous... think of all of those potential leak points.
 
It's not about having "a" die, it's about having the know how to do it. You could bang that tank out with a ball peen hammer and different blocks of wood, but that really begs the question of, what's the point? I was just saying it's not that hard...just lots of elbow grease. Having access to a Pullmax would help in some areas. ;) For a DIY'er yeah too complicated...

Potential leak points is a moot point. All fuel cells have seams that need to be leak tested. :p
 
morbid said:
Just gotta say congrats on passing 100,000 views!
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100k views and the only thing thats actually been done is the paint (and buying lots of expensive parts).

When are you going to get around to putting the motor together. Seems to be a lot of dicking around with auxiliary stuff while the core of this build just sits there. Every time this thread comes to the top I have to take a look but things just keep going backwards (brake and fuel lines, fuel tank).

Not trying to be a nark, I just couldn't let a project drag on this long.
 
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i agree...
CSVT#49, you should work things out as you build them or work on them. i think you are over thinking everything, and over complicating
 
Ever heard the saying "do it right the first time or dont do it at all"? After all the money spent on the engine, the fuel system is the last thing you want to rush to get done. I know if I had my whole car torn all down for such an extensive build and found rusty brake lines, I would replace them without second thinking it. Sounds to me that once the cage is done and the fuel situation is done he can start assembling a good amount of things.
 
FastFord said:
Ever heard the saying "do it right the first time or dont do it at all"? After all the money spent on the engine, the fuel system is the last thing you want to rush to get done. I know if I had my whole car torn all down for such an extensive build and found rusty brake lines, I would replace them without second thinking it. Sounds to me that once the cage is done and the fuel situation is done he can start assembling a good amount of things.
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What does that have to do with the engine build? I'm not saying that the lines shouldn't be replaced, fuel system fully spec'd out etc, but why not assemble the engine in the meantime. And it will be great when everything is ready and every post is something being put together. And I'd agree with you on the last point, but thats what I thought before he decided to install a cage and fuel cell.

To CSVT49 - I'm stating my opinion of what I would do here and I am in no way trying to criticise what you are doing. Obviously since I'm still reading and commenting in here, I am interested in the build, just showing my impatience. Just hurry up already ;)
 
He doesnt want to assemble the engine until the car is ready to have it running, due to the lube or something along those lines is better off not sitting for months once assembled, I dont feel like finding exactly what he said earlier in the thread for obvious reasons.
 
when you build an engine you put everything together with assembly grease, if the engine gets turned over or too hot etc, the assembly grease could become dissipated and not protect the parts prior to the engine hitting oil pressure. this information is in every haynes manual for every car ever produced in the history of ever.

ever hear someone say something about "carefull, she hasnt been turned over in a long time"? same idea... you can pull the plug wires and turn it over for a while and it will move a little oil around, but not like it should be, and also the injectors will be washing out the rings....
 
I like how people that have been following this are answering questions for me ;) Thanks guys. Also the build has taken this long because all this stuff is expensive... I don't have a money tree in the backyard. So to do everything right the first time unfortunately takes longer then I would like because of it. My heads alone cost more then most people paid for their entire Contour :shrug:

FedEx, UPS, and Speedy Delivery brought goods today.

New OEM fuel tank and all Aermotive goodies are here... only thing left to do is source the fuel line and assorted fittings.

Pics...

aeromotivefuelcomponent.jpg

regulatorgauge.jpg

railquickconnect.jpg

railquickconnect2.jpg

railquickconnect3.jpg
 
KAOS_3.0 said:
when you build an engine you put everything together with assembly grease, if the engine gets turned over or too hot etc, the assembly grease could become dissipated and not protect the parts prior to the engine hitting oil pressure. this information is in every haynes manual for every car ever produced in the history of ever.

ever hear someone say something about "carefull, she hasnt been turned over in a long time"? same idea... you can pull the plug wires and turn it over for a while and it will move a little oil around, but not like it should be, and also the injectors will be washing out the rings....
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I've always used motor oil for rebuilding and have never had a problem. After a build though, I always pull the ignition and fuel, hand crank it a few times then allow the starter to crank it and fully pressurize it a few times before I fire her up for the first go.
 
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