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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

CSVT#49 said:
I already have a full spare set of MNB interior including seats in my basement. Also the A-pillar's are already MNB. I also have two cans of Ford MNB interior paint (last couple they had).
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ok, sounds like you have it fairly sorted out, can't wait to see how it all looks put together. have you thought of painting the cage true blu? it matches the seats perfectly... a true blu cage and dash bexel and it would all look pretty well coherent. what parts did you plan on doing in carbon?
 
Ugh... seriously I'm getting tired of dealing with these companies on fuel sending units. Now the latest company I've been working with came back and said they dropped the ball and the unit they were quoting me is not compatible with E85. So apparently my only option is the UK company where they are charging me $75 in shipping for a $90 part... fricken ridiculous.
 
Comming back to the oil squirters....

I have asked my machine guy to add squirters to my 3.0l block i currently prepare with full forged internals.
Does someone of you know which size he should use, you used the same size as the noble guys?

He also asked me if he should prepare the oil pump and raise up the oil pressure, what do you think about this?

Artur
 
online-guru said:
Comming back to the oil squirters....

I have asked my machine guy to add squirters to my 3.0l block i currently prepare with full forged internals.
Does someone of you know which size he should use, you used the same size as the noble guys?

He also asked me if he should prepare the oil pump and raise up the oil pressure, what do you think about this?

Artur
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I would be pretty careful about having just anyone machine your oil squirters. They are machined in at a specific angle to spray the oil to a specific area. There are only three shops in the US that I know of that have those angles in a CNC program. As for the oil pump, the Noble's use the factory pump and do not have any problems. There are many Nobles out there pushing 500whp and still use the OEM Ford oil pump unmodified, so unless your getting crazy like me... I wouldn't bother messing with it. Also are you boosting your engine? If not I really do not see any benefit in adding oil squirters as your piston's shouldn't be getting that hot.
 
Yes i will boost the engine, basically i have the NPG stage 3 kit. I complately rebuild the engine with diamond pistons and K1 rods.
You know which shops have the data, can ask if they will share. Shipping the block overseas makes no sense ;-)

ok, i will keep the pump as it is. i bought a new one for rebuild. thanks for info.

What do you think of them:
http://fordracingparts123.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_46&products_id=1007

open at 50psi
 
online-guru said:
Yes i will boost the engine, basically i have the NPG stage 3 kit. I complately rebuild the engine with diamond pistons and K1 rods.
You know which shops have the data, can ask if they will share. Shipping the block overseas makes no sense ;-)

ok, i will keep the pump as it is. i bought a new one for rebuild. thanks for info.

What do you think of them:
http://fordracingparts123.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_46&products_id=1007

open at 50psi
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I doubt they would share the information. I'll get you the info when I get home from my business trip and you can try giving them a call. I think it's actually in a thread on here somewhere... but look for the info on Friday night/Sat morning.
 
Finally got some work done...

Finally got some work done...

Well in preparation for the fuel cell I removed the remaining exhaust and fuel tank. Found some surprises though... which is going to make for some additional unplanned work.

Borla Cat-back removed... planning on replicated the front half of the catback with 3" SS. The current 2.25 piping is going to be too small.

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Fuel tank was a bear to get out. The fill tube collar was a royal PITA to pop out of the sleeve and then when it finally did the damn seal on the end of the fill tube did not want to come out of the fuel tank nicely. This resulted in my ripping a small edge off the seal so looks like I'll be replacing that or just using a different style fill tube for my fuel cell since this has a special retainer on it.

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Now for the surprises. Once that tank was removed I was able to see the last half of the under body, which I wasn't able to coated with rubberized undercoating. I will be doing this over the next few days to completely coat and protect the under body of the car. Looking into this I was inspecting the fuel line routing that I'm going to need to follow with my SS hard lines I plan to bend. Consequently I was looking at the brake lines going to the rear as well... these lines were completely rusted as they bent up to go over the fuel tank. I'm going to have to replace the entire line from the ABS controller all the way to the line at the caliper. I just got finished doing this work to my 97 Civic... I did not enjoy it what so ever. I know damn well those line ends are not going to come off nicely. Hopefully PB blaster can make short work of it though.

img00619201204282148.jpg

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img00624201204282149.jpg
 
Copied from a thread on bobistheoilguy forum.

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."


EDIT: BTW After I remove an extremely rusted bolt/nut, if I have time, I usually soak it in ATF for a while and the rust usually comes off really well, add in an equal amount of acetone and it looks like it's be even better, always better to reinstall a non-rusted fastener with a little bit of anti-seize IMO.
 
Question, did you ever get the traction issues that csvts have solved? I know you got the hardened axles and all but anything else to help hookup?
 
ScottyDsntKnow said:
Question, did you ever get the traction issues that csvts have solved? I know you got the hardened axles and all but anything else to help hookup?
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I know its a loooong thread, but all that is covered in here. Seems like this thread just gets longer and longer with repetitive questions, thats all.
 
Well little change of plans. I think I'm going to forget the fuel cell. The factory tank is to complicated to try to replicate with an aluminum fabrication. Not only that, but because of the fill tube connection design it would be difficult to replicate and most likely require a new custom fill tube. Instead I have ordered a new OEM fuel tank and will be abandoning my A1000 stealth pump plan and going down the road of running two Aeromotive 340LPH Stealth pumps. I've rerun the numbers and the two stealth pumps should be more then capable of supporting my needs (6x60lph=360lph). Over the next couple of days I'll be designing a new top hat fuel pump assembly to allow for a cleaner installation. While I don't like the idea of relying on two pumps to deliver the fuel (ie if one burns up and I don't notice a drop in pressure it will be bad); many other car enthusiasts have been running two and even three pumps without problems. So I'm going to suck it up and go down that path too. Should have some concepts for the top hat assembly up in a few days.
 
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Have you considered this?

Wlabro.jpg


A lot of the 3S guys (also a turbo 3.0 V6) running e85 are using a large single in tank set up. Usually with 780cc-1000cc injectors. From what I've heard the Injector Dynamics 1000cc's are actually easier to tune. This is for the 500-550AWHP cars, any more than that and you will need a second fuel pump. Nothing wrong with a duel pump set up, but certainly a single pump would be simpler.
 
there are a lot of the 3S guys running the Supra pump, others running a single Stealth340, and a handful running that new Walbro 400. those running dual pumps are typically running dual Walbro 255s or Stealth340s from what I have seen.
 
striker2 said:
there are a lot of the 3S guys running the Supra pump, others running a single Stealth340, and a handful running that new Walbro 400. those running dual pumps are typically running dual Walbro 255s or Stealth340s from what I have seen.
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True, but those are typically used by the guys using the smaller range of TD04 turbos (Walbro 400 excluded). To be honest I can't remember what his power goal was, I was guessing 550fwhp. Now walbro does have 450lph and a 485lph e85 pumps, but I haven't heard much about those. They might be external pumps...
 
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