svt_fomoco
CEG'er
Let us know what parts you are going to powder coat and show pics.
-
Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.
You can register to join the community.
Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread
- Thread starter blu_fuz
- Start date
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
I will post the pics of things powder coated and painted. I will be re-spraying the engine bay with primer, body color, and clear to clean that up. The block and trans will get a color, just not sure what yet. All brackets and mounts will be silver or chrome. That is all I have planned as of now. I was thinking dark blue, silver, or body color for the block and trans......
Another porting suggestion.
Remove the 3L cams and put the 3L valve covers back on before porting. This will ensure that all the valves are closed. If cams are left in, some of the intake and exhaust valves will be partially open due to the cam lobes. Even with plugging them and grease I would worry a bit. Hell, I would actually remove cams, and still use paper towel and grease + a vac.
Stuff some paper towel or shop rags in spark plug tubes and anywhere else you don't want metal shavings. When I did it, aluminum dust was EVERYWHERE!!!
Remove the 3L cams and put the 3L valve covers back on before porting. This will ensure that all the valves are closed. If cams are left in, some of the intake and exhaust valves will be partially open due to the cam lobes. Even with plugging them and grease I would worry a bit. Hell, I would actually remove cams, and still use paper towel and grease + a vac.
Stuff some paper towel or shop rags in spark plug tubes and anywhere else you don't want metal shavings. When I did it, aluminum dust was EVERYWHERE!!!
that is a good idea, but because he isn't swapping cams and doesn't want to get into the engine I don't think its the best idea here.
definately make sure the engine is sealed up when you port it.
Hey Blu, I am actually just about done with this same project! A 95 SE with 3.0L. I was just about to post a bunch of pics of the progress and mods. I had previously converted to an SVT engine, so my path is a bit different in that I already have a later model top feed rail and SVT induction, cam etc. I am very conversant in the 95 vacuum secondary and OBD1 issues, as well as solutions for the bad wiring found on most 95s.
I am going without secondaries in the intial build, but I do have an SVT LIM converted to vacuum. (I've done this twice).
Mone is a ported 3.0L with SVT cams. I'll be posting shortly....no pretty powder coating though....only have money for go fast stuff right now.
PS: Beautiful asthetics....keep it up on the 3L!
I am going without secondaries in the intial build, but I do have an SVT LIM converted to vacuum. (I've done this twice).
Mone is a ported 3.0L with SVT cams. I'll be posting shortly....no pretty powder coating though....only have money for go fast stuff right now.
PS: Beautiful asthetics....keep it up on the 3L!
95Mike
CEG'er
I'm going to make a new post for you with all the links I've collected while searching throughout my 3l build. Oh, and buy the 3-pack of bugzuki plates. You can use one bolted down as a template and save the other two for the finish install.
svtkev
CEG'er
i would suggest removing the heads for the porting , since you already have to change the mount , the cost of a couple head gaskets and head bolts is worth the piece of mind of knowing there is no metal shavings in the engine, much easier to port the heads on a bench anyway
p.s. dont forget the exhaust ports
p.s. dont forget the exhaust ports
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
Sounds like you just need to come over here and finish my build! So hurry up, I don't want to do this any more! :crazy:
I have been persuaded to tear the 3L down and change out the bearings and get everything lubed and cleaned up. I would hate to try to start this thing not knowing if the cylinder walls were rusted up :blackeye: I will be removing the heads (not that I want to) to do the porting. Like stated earlier, it will only cost a couple extra $ for the gaskets and bolts.
I have ordered the 3 bugzookie plates, and those are super cheap for having the peace of mind knowing you won't have a chunk of JB weld falling into your engine.
I really wish this was over already as I have so many things to do owning a home, getting married, powder coating, broken car, and doing my remodeling. It always seems like something comes up when I have the ambition to work on the car.....
Thanks again for the tips guys [voice=Will Ferrel]I like you but you're crazy[/voice]
P.S. Am I supposed to use my 2.5L injectors or the 3L ones?
if the engine is an 05 and was just pulled there will be no rust in the engine, more so if it was stored correctly.
there is no need to remove the heads. take your time and keep everything clean. we have done a number of ported 3L now the way I discribed with no problems at all.
to install the motor mount just grind it down. It will slip in between the heads, but first you need to install the oil seperator between the heads.
No need to rpelace the bearing on such a low milage engine either. just once everything over when you swap oil pans.
you want to use your injectors. although if you can upgrade to SVT injectors as that is better for the 3L then the stock 17# injectors. You will need a tune in the end anyway. plus the spray pattern of the 3L injectors is wrong for a split port application.
If you want to keep the costs down don't worry about the bearings and port the heads on the engine. this way you also don't have to worry about re-timing the engine as you indicated you didn't want to mess with that much before at SZ.
there is no need to remove the heads. take your time and keep everything clean. we have done a number of ported 3L now the way I discribed with no problems at all.
to install the motor mount just grind it down. It will slip in between the heads, but first you need to install the oil seperator between the heads.
No need to rpelace the bearing on such a low milage engine either. just once everything over when you swap oil pans.
you want to use your injectors. although if you can upgrade to SVT injectors as that is better for the 3L then the stock 17# injectors. You will need a tune in the end anyway. plus the spray pattern of the 3L injectors is wrong for a split port application.
If you want to keep the costs down don't worry about the bearings and port the heads on the engine. this way you also don't have to worry about re-timing the engine as you indicated you didn't want to mess with that much before at SZ.
or you can spend a few hours grinding down the mount to fit between the heads for free ...
Reebs
meester super sleuth
a few hours Brian? More like 1/2 an hour!
And as for grinding the heads, I would never just stuff the holes and grind away, even with a vacuum on. If the heads are going to stay on the engine, at the very least tape over every hole but the one you are working on and crank the motor over to close the valves on that cylinder. Then make sure it is 100% clean before going on to the next hole and opening the valves. I personally wouldn't remove the heads on your engine Joe. I wouldn't replace the rod bearings either if your motor is actually that low in mileage. I don't know who would be installing the rod bearings, but as simple as it is, an inproper install could lead to premature failure down the road especially if the crank is knicked in the process by accident, etc... I personally would leave them alone as low mileage stock bearings will be more than sufficent.
a few hours Brian? More like 1/2 an hour!
And as for grinding the heads, I would never just stuff the holes and grind away, even with a vacuum on. If the heads are going to stay on the engine, at the very least tape over every hole but the one you are working on and crank the motor over to close the valves on that cylinder. Then make sure it is 100% clean before going on to the next hole and opening the valves. I personally wouldn't remove the heads on your engine Joe. I wouldn't replace the rod bearings either if your motor is actually that low in mileage. I don't know who would be installing the rod bearings, but as simple as it is, an inproper install could lead to premature failure down the road especially if the crank is knicked in the process by accident, etc... I personally would leave them alone as low mileage stock bearings will be more than sufficent.
ok maybe not that long but still its better the taking the heads off and spending the money on gaskets and bolts and putting it all back in and then having to time the engine.
good point on just rotating the engine to close the valves on the cylinder you are working on.
also be careful using one plate as a guide to porting the heads. when you do one side you will get into the plate alittle no matter how hard you try not to. so the other head will be openning up alittle more then the first. your better off just using one plate on each head and porting.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
a few hours Brian? More like 1/2 an hour!
And as for grinding the heads, I would never just stuff the holes and grind away, even with a vacuum on. If the heads are going to stay on the engine, at the very least tape over every hole but the one you are working on and crank the motor over to close the valves on that cylinder. Then make sure it is 100% clean before going on to the next hole and opening the valves. I personally wouldn't remove the heads on your engine Joe. I wouldn't replace the rod bearings either if your motor is actually that low in mileage. I don't know who would be installing the rod bearings, but as simple as it is, an inproper install could lead to premature failure down the road especially if the crank is knicked in the process by accident, etc... I personally would leave them alone as low mileage stock bearings will be more than sufficent.
See, that's what I was thinking about. No need to open an engine that has been properly built by FORD. The carfax says the car was bought by the salvage place in '06 with the 18k. The car was hit on the passenger side rear door area and the frame was bent. The motor was pulled within that year ('06) and has been stored since inside a climate controled warehouse. The motor is dusty, but as shown in the pics, it wasn't plugged. I don't know what could have been plugged because they left so much on the motor yet. Maybe the exhaust ports?:shrug: I just want to make sure everything has oil on it before that engine fires up for the first time.....
I just don't ever want to pull this out again, and I think opening the engine will bring me more problems down the road because I am not a motor builder and don't have a f'ing clue about that kind of thing. Ford did it right the first time, so why fix what is not bad.... :shrug:
I don't even know how to "turn the motor over to close the valves" :duh:
I know that buckshot suggests the bearing replacement on any engine bought from a JY, and that you would be dumb not to go in there. I see his point, if you have experience doing that type of thing.....
I know someone on CEG has had a few problems with installs because of just dropping the motors in after picking them up from the yard. Not sure, but that is the word on the street.
Should I just use the 3L plastic upper and not even worry about porting the heads?
to turn the motor pull the spark plugs so it easier to turn. then take the correct socket and use the crank bolt to turn the engine with a breaker bar or maybe even a ratchet.
on the bearings I would just go with it since this enigne has low miles. If it had like 60k or more I would consider the bearings.
as for going straight 3L that is up to you. do you like how it looks? do you like how the secondaries operate and how the car drives with them? do you want to use your powder coated parts on the engine?
everyone has made valid points about porting the engine but if you take your time and take care you will be fine. aircougar has ported a number of 3Ls by stuffing towels down the ports and using grease and a vacuum to catch the shaving. Those engine are all running very strong months later now. But take it for what its worth.
you need to deside how you want your motor built and how you want to go about it and how much you can spend on it.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
I really never wanted to have to make these decisions, 2.5L FTW!
Do I have to port my SE lower intake?
My final thoughts for the build:
MOTOR
-keep the SVT UIM regardless of HP #s (so I must port heads)
-keep original secondaries
-using 2.5 pan and pickup tube
-only replace what is needed
-pre-lube everything
-paint whatever I can
-install headers
-install DMD with longer bolt
-install 2.5 valve and timing covers
-install new AC compressor and drier
-new serp. belt
-finally connect my oil pressure sending unit :crazy:
-cut crank shaft down?(not sure what to do here yet, need to do more reading I think)
-grind '01 cougar mount
pre98 Rod-shift TRANS
-torsen diff
-zetec final drive
-new seals
-new TOB
-SVT clutch & PP
BRAKES
-new ebrake cables
-warmonger rears with painted calipers
-Baer 13" fronts
-stainless lines all around
Do I have to port my SE lower intake?
My final thoughts for the build:
MOTOR
-keep the SVT UIM regardless of HP #s (so I must port heads)
-keep original secondaries
-using 2.5 pan and pickup tube
-only replace what is needed
-pre-lube everything
-paint whatever I can
-install headers
-install DMD with longer bolt
-install 2.5 valve and timing covers
-install new AC compressor and drier
-new serp. belt
-finally connect my oil pressure sending unit :crazy:
-cut crank shaft down?(not sure what to do here yet, need to do more reading I think)
-grind '01 cougar mount
pre98 Rod-shift TRANS
-torsen diff
-zetec final drive
-new seals
-new TOB
-SVT clutch & PP
BRAKES
-new ebrake cables
-warmonger rears with painted calipers
-Baer 13" fronts
-stainless lines all around
I really never wanted to have to make these decisions, 2.5L FTW!
Do I have to port my SE lower intake?
My final thoughts for the build:
MOTOR
-keep the SVT UIM regardless of HP #s (so I must port heads)
-keep original secondaries
-using 2.5 pan and pickup tube
-only replace what is needed
-pre-lube everything
-paint whatever I can
-install headers
-install DMD with longer bolt
-install 2.5 valve and timing covers
-install new AC compressor and drier
-new serp. belt
-finally connect my oil pressure sending unit :crazy:
-cut crank shaft down?(not sure what to do here yet, need to do more reading I think)
pre98 Rod-shift TRANS
-slick shift forks
-quaife diff
-zetec final drive
-new seals
BRAKES
-new ebrake cables
-warmonger rears with painted calipers
-Baer 13" fronts
-stainless lines all around
no you don't touch the lower intake. that is already split port so you are making the heads match that.
I wouldn't worry about pre-oiling everything to much. just crank it a few time with the coil unplugged and the gas pedal on the floor. then connect coil and fire it up.
on the crank shaft, there is a pilot bushing that you either need to remove or cut flush with the crank, you are not cutting the crank at all.
list looks good. don't forget to add getting another motor mount and grinding it down so you can fit it between the heads.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
I forgot to write about the mount....... Thanks brapple
I can't wait to drive this. I will be going from 134 HP at the wheels to like 190 HP at the wheels :drool: maybe even more.....
So why don't I have any volunteers to come to my house and finish this???
Thanks brappleI can't wait to drive this. I will be going from 134 HP at the wheels to like 190 HP at the wheels :drool: maybe even more.....
So why don't I have any volunteers to come to my house and finish this???
Reebs
meester super sleuth
95pgt-t
Hard-core CEG'er
well,if your using your stock 30/31mm lim you'll be choking off some hp. uneven port sizes combined w/a small lim isn't ideal for flow or hp.
at the very least,if your dead set on running a ported engine,get a svt lim and convert it to a vaccum setup,or port match the runners:shrug:
at the very least,if your dead set on running a ported engine,get a svt lim and convert it to a vaccum setup,or port match the runners:shrug:
Bradness
CEG'er
If you're interested in a custom machined LIM I have at least 1. Now the primaries have been left alone other than the air entry "belling" I did with a boring head and a custom tool on the vertical mill. The secondaries have been opened up to 1.25". I also "belled" the secondary entries. I built 1 for my 95 and another for my 96. I'm certain I have the 96 casting complete but it uses an IMRC. Your car uses the electronically operated vacuum solenoid. Pretty sure you can install the solenoid on the later casting. You will not be able to use anything bigger than a 17 lb injector if you're using the early type fule rail. As far as I know, side feed injectors are very limited in terms of different sizes. They can be overrun moreso than top feed as the fuel cools them. Your car uses a regulator which runs about 31 psi. I built my own FPR to drive the 17 lb'rs at 40 psi making them act bigger.
I was wondering what you're going to do about a tune with OBD1.
The shift rod mechanism is much superior to the cable mechanism! You can shorten the shifter but you have to drop the complete shaft/shifter assembly and you'll lose the R lockout. The lockout was always a PITA if anyone else drove the car anyway.
I was wondering what you're going to do about a tune with OBD1.
The shift rod mechanism is much superior to the cable mechanism! You can shorten the shifter but you have to drop the complete shaft/shifter assembly and you'll lose the R lockout. The lockout was always a PITA if anyone else drove the car anyway.