todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
Mine reads the same as Fox's. I think 63 cruising. 80 something on cold start. Idle around 18. Mine is mechanical and is plumbed into my oil filter relocation setup.
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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread
- Thread starter blu_fuz
- Start date
Tex
Hard-core CEG'er
I'm pretty sure that mine is tapped at the head. Reads 40 PSI cruising on the highway, 80 PSI cold idle, 8 psi hot idle. 
I'm pretty sure that mine is tapped at the head. Reads 40 PSI cruising on the highway, 80 PSI cold idle, 8 psi hot idle.
yes those numbers match what you would see reading the oil pressure at the head.
20 and 65 are stock numbers if tapped behind the ac compressor or on a remote oil filter.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
At cold start my gauge reads over 100psi while driving for a good 3-5 minutes, what does that mean ....
....At cold start my gauge reads over 100psi while driving for a good 3-5 minutes, what does that mean
reading over 100 psi on a cold start is not uncommon. fully warmed up and with an engine speed above ~3krpm the pressure should be 65 psi.
I don't see a problem .... does the oil still have assembly fluid in it?
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
^Yes, it does.
I think I found the oil leak too. I just jacked up the car and crawled under there and can see the oil on the ac compressor. It has got to be the fittings for the pressure sensor or sender. I will probably take care of that tonight and pick up the liquid pipe tape instead of using the regular pipe tape and threadlock.
ok assembly fluid is some thick stuff, that is going to increase the oil pressure because its thick. you need to see what the pressures are after you change the oil.
Near zero affect in my opinion. The ratio of assy grease to motor oil should be very small.
Too high of pressure can be a problem. There were a good number of late '90s Duratec failures due to sticking oil pump pressure relief. A real cold startup created enough pressure (it's a positive displacement pump) that the oil filter would burst. Never heard of any more issues after the pump was revised.
ctmystique
Hard-core CEG'er
I'm pretty sure that's what started his whole 3L project in the first place. The oil filter burting anyways. Sandblasting residue blocking the relief valve?
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
Correct-o! The newly powder coated parts (everything) were sooo clean that I would personally lick the inside of any of them. Not that I did, but you know what I mean
Now that I have the car jacked up again to fix the oil leak I noticed that the brake lines are also "seeping" in the front. Should I put pipe tape on the threads of the hardlines where they meet the flex line? Just little stuff to take care of before the snow flies :throwup:......
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
I've never used it and never had a leak.
Correct-o! The newly powder coated parts (everything) were sooo clean that I would personally lick the inside of any of them. Not that I did, but you know what I mean
Now that I have the car jacked up again to fix the oil leak I noticed that the brake lines are also "seeping" in the front. Should I put pipe tape on the threads of the hardlines where they meet the flex line? Just little stuff to take care of before the snow flies :throwup:......
brake lines dont use the threads to seal, they use the flare. Teflon tape will do nothing but hurt you. you shouldnt have to crank on them either. if they are leaking, its probably due to a poor flare on the hardline.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
I will check the flare, fix and clean them up with steel wool if they look crudy or beat up. Thanks for the tip.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
So, the oil was leaking where the rubber hose slips over the nipple fitting just off the block. It was even clamped :shrug:. I pulled it off, cleaned the nipple and re-positioned, so we will see. If that doesn't work I will switch to some type of hardline connection.
The baer brake line was seeping from the banjo and from where it meets the hardline. I snugged them up a tad so hopefully that works. Nothing major for either leak and all the other brake line and oil connections are dry.
The baer brake line was seeping from the banjo and from where it meets the hardline. I snugged them up a tad so hopefully that works. Nothing major for either leak and all the other brake line and oil connections are dry.
CraigTRD
CEG'er
Man, this is a sweet thread. Awesome pics and questions....awesome answers from the rest of the guys on this forum too!!
I skimmed through all of the pages, and only read about 8% of the text (text closest to the pictures).....
Did you really remove and install the engine through the top????????????
I have a 99 SVT with the engine on the engine stand right now tore down to the bare block. I am getting pricing on new crank bearings, piston rings, and crank polishing....but I am seriously considering just doing the 3.0L swap as I think I might be into the same amount of money. Sorry to get a little off topic, or get away from your thread, just wanted to explain why I am checking out your thread. Have a good one!
I skimmed through all of the pages, and only read about 8% of the text (text closest to the pictures).....
Did you really remove and install the engine through the top????????????
I have a 99 SVT with the engine on the engine stand right now tore down to the bare block. I am getting pricing on new crank bearings, piston rings, and crank polishing....but I am seriously considering just doing the 3.0L swap as I think I might be into the same amount of money. Sorry to get a little off topic, or get away from your thread, just wanted to explain why I am checking out your thread. Have a good one!
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
Hey, no problem and thanks for reading. I know there is a lot of info in this thread so it is hard to read up on if you don't have the time.
Like you said, it will probably be cheaper/easier to source a 3L and go that route. You can do it because I am probably the least trained on any motor work ever until this and I could do it. Basic tools and a will to want to learn and do it yourself. If the car is busted already you don't have anything to loose right? Go for it.
Like you said, it will probably be cheaper/easier to source a 3L and go that route. You can do it because I am probably the least trained on any motor work ever until this and I could do it. Basic tools and a will to want to learn and do it yourself. If the car is busted already you don't have anything to loose right? Go for it.
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
Lies! Watch out for sneaky Canadians invading posts.
SVT Loki
Veteran CEG'er
At cold start my gauge reads over 100psi while driving for a good 3-5 minutes, what does that mean
Mine does the same Joe, it's plumbed at the Head. I believe this is done on purpose to ensure proper lubrication to the top of the motor during cold start.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
So my oil pressure fitting is leaking again where the hose meets the fitting on the block. I don't know why it can get through there but it must be too much pressure for a rubber hose and clamp. I will probably have to switch to a hardline or a SS braided hose with pressed ends or something. About a quarters size blotch under the car for 5-10 minutes of idling.... damn it.
CraigTRD
CEG'er
I JUST sourced one for $400! This is awesome, I can't wait to pop it in and start fixing engine codes!
Hahaha, thanks!!!