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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

Joe, have you thought about using something like an AFC (either the SAFC or Neo AFC) to tune the injectors, and even timing if you wanted. SAFCs can usually be had for pretty cheap used and they work well.

now my thought, is that if you are going to tune in larger injectors, why not go with 21/22 lb (whatever it was that came on the 99 split port 3Ls) and be safe.
 
I'm honestly not familiar with any tuning devices or how they work. I have never even used a xcal to read CEL codes :eek:.......


I am open to about anything. Only reason I decided to stick with the 19# is because I have them here and I have the SCT 4 selection flip chip for OBDI.
 
blu_fuz said:
I'm honestly not familiar with any tuning devices or how they work. I have never even used a xcal to read CEL codes :eek:.......


I am open to about anything. Only reason I decided to stick with the 19# is because I have them here and I have the SCT 4 selection flip chip for OBDI.
Click to expand...

the S/neo-AFCis actually really easy to install and tune with. you just splice it in between some of the signals/outputs and the PCM. to tune the injectors you just add or subtract the proper percentage of fuel for the injectors you are using, which is easily figured out by doing a little bit of math (old/new in CCs/min). you can then adjust the fuel at multiple RPM levels based on how lean or rich its running. you can do the same thing with timing, either advancing or retarding it depending on how its running.

however since you already have the flip chip for OBD1, you just need to find someone who can tune it for you and install the chip.
 
Holy Hell that was a read and a half. But I got through your whole thread Joe and i must say that I am impressed with the work you have done especially since it was your first time accomplishing something like this. Seems like doing it right has paid off.

Im in the process of getting my 2.5 out and a 3L in. Your thread will help somewhat but I have a 99 SVT so some things will be different.

Good job and thanks for posting the information as well as follow up information.
 
Thanks Murky - I wish I loaded the thread with more step-by-step process, but I was learning a lot as I went so I wasn't sure what to post.

I'm glad this can help you out a bit, don't be afraid to PM me and ask some questions - that's what I stay around here for ;). Good luck with your build!
 
I do actually have a question regarding the passenger side mount. I understand that you went with a Cougar mount. Is this necessary or will I be able to grind the SVT mount down to fit??
 
You can use your stock mount. I was told that certain year cougar mounts have some material removed already and you will have less cutting/grinding to do. I now realize that the mount I bought to modify was not one of those and it was a waste of money. Just use your mount and modify it.
 
I put pictures up in a thread on here of how much metal I removed to get mine in. you also dont go in with it from the top, you sort of slide it in the side angled, then turn it to face the valley correctly. if that makes sense. if not I could draw you a diagram, just let me know.
 
*10-21-11
Car = 231,568 Miles
Motor = 38,488 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 19,337 Miles*


The built trans still has gear rollover noise and has not gotten any louder so it's not an issue.

Still have not installed my new IAC to kill the moose. :laugh:

No major issues with the swap. Just some other things popping up that needed to be taken care of and a couple other fixes that need attention.

Running 17# injectors and no tune. I'm shooting to have the injector/lim upgrade done this winter after I find a tuner to work with me hopefully.
 
*6-18-12
Car = 235,418 Miles
Motor = 42,338 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 23,187 Miles*



I installed my new IAC to kill the moose (and it did, no more moose!) and the DPFE sensor just went bad so I swapped that out with a new one.

Finally got my SCT Eliminator chip tune burned for when I get around to swapping over my injectors/LIM/etc.


I had a serious grounding issue going on and at times my volt gauge was only reading @ 10V, car was running very hot, and the cooling fans were not turning on. A local shop figured it out, fixed the problem (and my rear brake lines :blackeye: ), and now my volt reading is over a full volt higher than it has ever been at my gauge. It feels faster than it ever has before and now I am wondering if my dyno numbers would be a little better :ponder:.
 
Oh yeah I read that thread a while back. Totally forgot your car came with 17lb injectors though lol, I was hoping you were going to try the 96-99 Taurus 22lb because that's what I'm looking at trying (I'm also return style, split port), I know my stock 19lbs are about maxed out.
 
The 19# are just tried-and-true for our platform and it was just more simple for the mail order tuning on my flip chip. Again, I'm not looking for max HP but more for hassle free driveability and reliable.
 
*11-14-12
Car = 238,623 Miles
Motor = 45,543 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 26,392 Miles*


Clutch just went out :nonono:.
 
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