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My turbo 3L hybrid build

With cable was like 200$ right? I found them without cable for as low as 80$ shipped on eBay. Who knows if its real. So now what about a water meth. Kit?
 
Really up to you. Like Brapple said, if you get the hallman with the cable, you get adjustability from the cabin, which would be nice. I used the 'cheaper' one that I linked for years with no issues, no boost spikes. I didn't make many changes to my peak boost. Once I dialed in what I wanted, thats where I left it. A progressive controller would have been awesome, but now your talking multiple 100s of dollars for a setup like that.

I never got around to installing a water/meth kit. From my research I would have just run straight water, no meth. It seemed to simplify the tuning. Because you would need to tune for the injection of methanol. You 'should' tune for the injection of water too.

Check out snow performance.
 
honestly, I would start by keeping everything simple and get the car running good on wastegate pressure (unless thats only a few PSI then install the boost controller) before adding a boost controller or water/meth.

for a manual boost controller, there really is no need to spend more than $50 (hell, you can make one from parts at home depot for a few bucks) unless you want a staged MBC like the turboXS setup. If you are wanting a low and high boost setting, then spend the money on a proper electronic boost controller.
 
Nope, nothing too fancy right now. I have figured all the little issues with what I have now(3psi). So next week I will datalog it again and get it tuned right. Then want to slowly increase the boost and hold it at 8psi. Then install my air ride !!!! I have it now and think this is going to be Quik enough with added weight .
 
Oh. And I just ordered three, 1986 turbo coupe pvc valves. Gonna see what one seals right and install that with my oil seperator .
 
newguyhooah said:
Nope, nothing too fancy right now. I have figured all the little issues whither what I have now(3psi). So next week I will datalog it again and get it tuned right. Then want to slowly increase the boost and hold it at 8psi. Then install my air ride !!!! I have it now and think this is going to be Quik enough with added weight .
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btw, when you tune, make sure you are running the max boost that you want to run. otherwise you will end up running learn on the top end when you up the boost. I started at 3 psi and the fueling was good. upped it to 8 psi and it wasn't getting the fuel that it needed. retuned so that it was safe and it has been fine since.
 
Really, i did not know that. Joey said it did not matter too much. He tunes then to alow added boost. I will ask him again to make sure. I am going to order my boost conrtoller this weekend then just incase. Thx
 
so I had this leak from above my alt. for some time now...I had changed the valve cover gasket and tested it out. Still leaked from that area!!!! Not sure why!!!. So I tightened the bolt a little more and it snapped!!!!!!!!!! I just broke off the bolt into the head!!!. Now What!!!! I still have a leak too. From where. ??? Why. I am taking this thing to the shop to have an expert fix this for $$$$ I am sure...Sucks!
 
newguyhooah said:
so I had this leak from above my alt. for some time now...I had changed the valve cover gasket and tested it out. Still leaked from that area!!!! Not sure why!!!. So I tightened the bolt a little more and it snapped!!!!!!!!!! I just broke off the bolt into the head!!!. Now What!!!! I still have a leak too. From where. ??? Why. I am taking this thing to the shop to have an expert fix this for $$$$ I am sure...Sucks!
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unless we know where the leak is coming from or/and which bolt u broke, its gonna be hard to advise u what to do
 
Bad weekend for me!! Sorry for the lack of input! So I got all pissed and drove it to a ford mech I know. He really thought that it could be the timing/engine cover. But he looked really close and found a hairline crack on the back side of the valve cover! And under pressure it was dumping oil like crazy!. So in a few days it will be back on the road!!! Time to finally datalog it!
Then boost it up!
 
Makes sense that the cover was cracked, if enough torque was applied to the bolt to snap it.

99% sure the torque spec for the valve cover bolts is ~8-10 ft/lbs.
 
SHOgoFast said:
Makes sense that the cover was cracked, if enough torque was applied to the bolt to snap it.

99% sure the torque spec for the valve cover bolts is ~8-10 ft/lbs.
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its not even that much, although its close. the Ford CD lists the valve cover bolts torque spec to 89in-lbs.
 
Hey guys....your breaking my balls!!!!_ lol. Well member when I said that it was leaking before ? The crack was already there. It was leaking really bad. Then I thought "just a lil more tighter" and then it snapped. Well I will get it bad in a few days. He still wants to run it a little bit to make sure its not that engine/chain cover. Oh. Does anyone have a part number for a really good set of plugs? Cooler ones for my turbo app. I heard NGK makes a bunch.
 
Not trying to bust balls, just seem like 2+2=4 scenario....cracked cover + busted bolt = high torque.

I ran stock heat range plugs with no issues. Originally used cooler NGKs and had a rough idle. Pretty sure Warmonger ran stock heat range without issue as well.
 
Now why should I gap ny plugs to a .032 range? The don't come that close. I found autolite xp103 they are their iridium plugs .
 
what do you mean they don't come that close? you need to reduce the gap because you are running boost. stock is 0.054", and everyone running boost is using 0.030" gap.
 
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