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My turbo 3L hybrid build

BAD SVT said:
i must be the only dumb one. My denso iridiums are gapped to stock .054 gap. No hesitation at WOT.
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thats because you are running iridiums. the smaller point means you can use a larger gap without having spark blowout issues.

FWIW though, i dont think most people are running enough boost (most people seem to be around the 10PSI mark IIRC) to really need to gap them down to .030". .040" would probably work without issues as well. I run .030" on my VR4 with a 17 yr old ignition system at 14-15PSI, but many people dont even have to go that low until closer to 20PSI. of course, every car is different so what works best for your car will take some testing.
 
That's basically what warmonger told me. We are not pushing enough boost to worry about our spark not jumping the gap. If you have no hesitation at high rpm on stock gap, I see no need to narrow it.

Has the CEG concensus changed regarding iridium vs platinum? Aside from the short time I used the NGK TR6's, I've used autolite double plats, gapped to stock.
 
NGK TR7 Iridium stock number 3690 are what Noble owners use out of the box that and the NGK BR7EFS plugs so whatever they are gapped at. I haven't gotten to that point so I haven't checked.
 
CSVT#49 said:
NGK TR7 Iridium stock number 3690 are what Noble owners use out of the box that and the NGK BR7EFS plugs so whatever they are gapped at. I haven't gotten to that point so I haven't checked.
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I think your peak boost will get a bit over 10psi, no? LOL, you will certainly need a different ignition configuration.
 
SHOgoFast said:
I think your peak boost will get a bit over 10psi, no? LOL, you will certainly need a different ignition configuration.
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pretty sure he is looking to be able to run 18-20PSI based on his build thread. for that, I would run copper plugs gaped to about .025-.030. the stock coil pack is pretty stout so unless you still have problems i wouldnt worry about finding an aftermarket setup (like MSD).
 
SHOgoFast said:
I think your peak boost will get a bit over 10psi, no? LOL, you will certainly need a different ignition configuration.
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striker2 said:
pretty sure he is looking to be able to run 18-20PSI based on his build thread. for that, I would run copper plugs gaped to about .025-.030. the stock coil pack is pretty stout so unless you still have problems i wouldnt worry about finding an aftermarket setup (like MSD).
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I'll be running and MSD DIS-4 with an Accel Supercoil ;)
 
ok, so I got the autolite 103 iridiums. they list gap at .054 i think. So i will run those and see how it feels. thx guys!!
 
alright, I just got my car back the other day and just installed a boost controller. I got the evo-pro from hallman. It has the cable to run to the inside dash, its simple but nice. Well with their fine tunning spring I am now boosting to 5psi fast! I think it starts to creep a little past that but I do not push it too much as I still have not data logged it yet. I am going to do that tomorrow for sure. It also came with a heavy spring to boost it past 10psi!!! I will install that soon!
 
don't mess with a boost controller until you have all your mechanical issues sorted out and the tune set. also your going to want to just install the psring you want in the waste gate. don't bother using the mbc to get to 10 psi from 3 psi, just use a 8 psi spring and go from there.
 
well i was advised to get it to the recommended daily boost, then datalog it. I do want to get an 8lbs wastegate spring and then use the boost controller to push a little more, but really whats the point if i have the Hallman? and as far as I know, all my little issues are taken care of! Just got the final leak fixed and am sourcing an oil restricter as we speak. i think i am pushing too much pressure for the ball bearing setup. i have a small drip from the turbo and it spits smoke when i get up on it before its warmed up. anyone know of a cost effective intercooler spray kit?
 
Ok, question. If I splice an o2 sensor in does it matter if it is a front/green or rear/blue. Sensor. And how specific do the wires have to be . I had to lengthen mine the other day and now it stalls when i push the clutch in while driving. i also just put in the boost controller so maybe i have a wreak vacum line. The ones that came with the controller are very flimsy. I think they are colapsing in.
 
newguyhooah said:
Ok, question. If I splice an o2 sensor in does it matter if it is a front/green or rear/blue. Sensor. And how specific do the wires have to be . I had to lengthen mine the other day and now it stalls when i push the clutch in while driving. i also just put in the boost controller so maybe i have a wreak vacum line. The ones that came with the controller are very flimsy. I think they are colapsing in.
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I'm not 100% sure what u're asking, but front & rear sensors are the same thing. they only differ when its upper & lower. In other words, the upstream sensors are the same front n back, while the downstreams are the same as well front n back. And if u do cut n splice, be sure to solder it.
 
I spliced the down stream and placed it in the upstream spot . I dont know if I wired it the right way and am wandering if that could cause the stall issue I now have. I am going to redo my vacum lines today and hope that fixes it
 
Ok with the o2 sensor, when I installed the turbo I had put a sensor in the wrong spot and now it will not come out. Not without removing the rear header. Soooo that is why I just spliced the proper wires in to the sensor. And I think I am still missing a rear sensor??? I have two green/ Front sensore that mount on the headers, one that must have been on the y-pipe and do I have a fourth?
As for the stalling, if I boost up a liitle then push in the clutch, it will stall. But if I drive with out boosting then its fine. I took off the boost contoller and it still does it, just not as much. So I have a vacume leak somewhere. Could it be the PVC vale? Its off of the 87 turbo coupe. does my car need to breath through the PVC in both directions?
 
the NPG kit deletes one lower O2 sensor. so unless you added a bung to put it back in there isn't a spot for it.

also you want to fix the O2 sensors correctly. Do you have headers? if not the pre-cat will be messing with the O2 sensor singal if the upstream sensor is behind the cat. that is going to screw things up alot.


what is the bov configuration? Mine will want to stall some times, ie at medium rpm and the bov actuates while coming to a stop. with your xcal you can bumpe up the idle rpm to help alittle. otherwise it the nature of the beast from my understanding.

The PCV valve is fine, it will open at the correct time, and seal under boost. just make sure all of the lines are tight. IE put zip ties on all of the vacuum lines.
 
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For my bov, I have a line running to my manifold but it vents out to the atmosphere .
I have the ADC headers, with an o2 Bing in each. I had the exhuast guy put two more bungs after the cat and as of the other day my downstream was in the rear header. That's when I spliced the upstream connection into the downstream sensor. And thats when my stalling began. That might be my answer but is it likely?
Am I going to have to get new sensors and start this all over again? Will a bad sensor cause my car to stall? How many sensors does an 00 svt have? i thought i had two of each.
 
4 sensors total. All are the same sensor element, just different plastic connector. But the upstream and downstream tell the ECU different things, so their locations cannot be swapped.

Two upstream sensors, teal connectors. One in each ADC manifold. These report back to the ECU the air fuel ratio occuring om each bank of the engine. These will cause the ecu to adjust fuel trims. These are required to be working properly to dial the car in.

Two downstream sensor, blue connectors. Anywhere in the exhaust after the manifolds. These guys are designed to tell the ECU how well the pre-cats are functioning. They will not cause the ECU to alter fuel trims. That is why they can be disabled in the tune and not cause issues.
 
Ok. Great. Three more questions....
Does the order of the wires make any difference? I tried to wire them correctly but I might not have.
Will a wrong spice order cause stalling like what I have described ?
And lastly, where is the two blue connections Hung from?
I found one that hangs by the rear header but I can't find the fourth plug.
 
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