• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

OK guys check over my list plz!

T

TRicker

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jun 25, 2006
Messages
3,931
Location
Center City, MN
okay here's what i have on my list so far:

2001-2003 Taurus/Sable block (too poor for an escape~!)

SVT cams, Timing equip, valve covers, LIM/UIM, (i have the templates to oval port)

Fluids:

2 gallons antifreeze
1 Quart power-steering fluid
3 quarts ford honey (3.2 is capacity? not sure i just fill to spill)
6 quarts Non-Synthetic oil 5-30 (for break in period)
Oil filter

parts:

Valve cover gaskets (2.5L)
LIM gaskets (2.5L)
UIM gaskets (2.5L)
Oil Pan Gasket (3L)
Clevite 77 rod bearings (standard size)
Rod Bolts (?)
Timing cover gasket (?) ive never had one off, my 2.5L came without one.

Prepping:

install rod bearings, and reinstall oil pan with new gasket (rtv on the corners?)

Remove 3L pilot bushing (i plan to notch it and remove it with a puller)

Install cams (good luck with that i'm told?) timing equipment, and timing cover. install 2.5L pulse wheel. also install 3L valve covers with new gaskets (RTV on the corners?)

tap 3L block (or splice?) for knock sensor.

Remove the tabs on the 3L block (a pic would help plz!)

reinstall the SVT uppers and all that goodness.

oh yeah i should probably remove the old motor before i start to put this one in..... ;)


it feels like im missing a bunch so rant, rave, whatever you do, just help me be fully prepared!
 
SVT cams, Timing equip, valve covers, LIM/UIM, (i have the templates to oval port)
Click to expand...
You plan to just use the 150k mile stuff from your old motor (timing equip). Might want to buy new chains, guides, tensioners, sprocket (on the crank).

Remove the tabs on the 3L block (a pic would help plz!)
Click to expand...
You'll see the ears you need to cut off, for the alternator and for the oil cooler.

Install cams (good luck with that i'm told?) timing equipment, and timing cover. install 2.5L pulse wheel. also install 3L valve covers with new gaskets (RTV on the corners?)
Click to expand...
Time it , make sure its timed! Dont **** up the pulse wheel! its timing cover dependent (you'll be using your 2.5) it needs to be set to 2.5. Follow the Ford CD on where to put RTV. Use your 2.5 valve covers, 3.0 wont work for your set-up (plus you'll have an IMRC and need the 2.5 to mount on). You need timing cover gaskets also just fyi. Search rockauto for the 2.5 svt motor and you'll find all ya need

Fluids:

2 gallons antifreeze
1 Quart power-steering fluid
3 quarts ford honey (3.2 is capacity? not sure i just fill to spill)
6 quarts Non-Synthetic oil 5-30 (for break in period)
Oil filter
Click to expand...
If you're only doing rod bearings, and not removing the heads/ installing new bearings you arent breaking anything in and will not need dino oil.You also need brake fluid to bleed and refill the clutch.

and a side note:
Have a large 12mm(?) allen key handy to remove the oil cooler. A T60 torx also works.

probably missing some stuff. Id get you my part list for all the gaskets and stuff but my laptop is dead :(
 
alright i'll order up the new 2.5L sprockets and chain, and the timing cover gasket. so i'm reusing the 2.5L timing cover too? shoudlnt be too hard.

i'll make sure the thing is timed for surely....and yeah your right i'll just run synthetic.

i also forgot new gaskets for the headers :)
 
definitely tap the block for the 2.5 knock sensor its so easy it took about 2 minutes , plus the way i see it its calibrated for your pcm

make sure you dont mix up your cam caps and use the 3L caps on the svt cams

when timing the engine leave the followers out and set your timing and then slip the followers in , then torque the caps accordingly

not like i am a pro just offering some advice
 
it wont let me edit my post for some reason, but i wanted to say to port match the head to the exhaust gaskets too
 
Measure your crank before ordering the bearings...

Don't forget its ATF for the power steering fluid not just p/s fluid off the shelf

I would install a new rear main seal while I have the engine out too

Get a ford cd and follow it
 
updated oil pan with integrated gasket might be a wise choice. also dont forget to get a new oil pump and prime it befor starting it up. i primed it but the oil wasnt building pressure becasuse it wasnt at the pump thats why im replacing my bearings again. dont ask.....
 
FYI I'd recommend using your 2.5L valve covers. You can't bolt your 2.5L coil pack, IMRC or the connector bracket on the rear head. Don't forget new autolite double plats.
 
TRicker said:
alright i'll order up the new 2.5L sprockets and chain, and the timing cover gasket. so i'm reusing the 2.5L timing cover too? shoudlnt be too hard.

i'll make sure the thing is timed for surely....and yeah your right i'll just run synthetic.

i also forgot new gaskets for the headers :)
Click to expand...

Don't need them. Factory stainless steel gaskets are very reusable unless they have serious corrosion/pitting.
No one I know gets exhaust leaks from reusing them though I won't say it hasn't happened to someone.

And just use the 2.5L oil pan. There really isn't a lot of difference. You can drill two holes in the edges of the baffle plate if you want to increase drainback.
 
I would add engine build lube to that list, just changing the rod bearings?So if the crank chews up a rod bearing why not check the rod?the mains?the crank? Where did the old bearing go?(who knows??)If you want this engine to last you may want to clean that lower end up.
 
This thread has a picture of the front tabs that need to be trimmed. http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=12187

The back of the engine has a tab that the Taurus transmission dowel goes in that should be trimmed also to allow more room for the oil cooler hose.

I used the new knock sensor and spliced the wiring. I heard it said that the sensor was calibrated to the engine and the PCM can adjust for it.

Don't forget to look into what you are going to do about the front engine mount. The Taurus holes are smaller so you need to tap them out or get the Cougar mount. There is a discussion about it in this thread:
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=7636&highlight=mount
It is listed in here also:
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...209503&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=2&fpart=1

Nice choice on the templates.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
i already have a spec stage3 with like 15-20k miles on it, i'll put that back in and when the diff goes i plan on getting a whole rebuild done (everything inside, but i dont have an extra 1800 right now) with a quaife differential and all that from terry haines.
 
Come on now, we all knew that they are torque biasing diffs, we just use LSD because it's easier for the avg idiot to comprehend.
 
Last edited:
well I actually have one too...so yes I know. but I do stand corrected anyway.

My engine build took so long for me that I would say beg, borrow, or steal so you can do it all at once. I had a very new clutch but got a new disc to put in just for piece of mind...it was pretty cheap and I sold my used one for a decent price.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top