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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

CSVT#49 said:
I could actually. They supply fabric to match their seats to allow people to do just that. I however am not taking it that far. I'll probably do some blue accents on the bezels along with some CF parts to carry in some of the exterior look. Although I won't be re-upholstering the interior.
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you should atleast do the back seats to match the front, it only makes sense...

also, I happen to have most of a MNB interior I could supply to you for the low cost of shipping if you wanted to experiment. I'd planned on selling the stuff, but your project is monumental enough I'd donate the parts if you'd be willing to do a custom interior with them. if you didnt live in the middle of the continent I'd drive them to you...

[edit] also, 02 cougar steering collum cover and wheel ftw. the only project is you have to splice the airbag harness, and get a custom emblem to go where the coug face used to go. would look stellar in your car, and mostly bolts up too...
 
Who gives a S*** about the interior! Get that monster of an engine running and driving around before you worry about the color of the back seats. I can see getting the front seats in to have the cage built, but everything else like the back seats can be pulled out in like 30 mins if you want to match them later on down the road, which I do think would look good on the car. And an aftermarket steering wheel would look and function much better than a cougar wheel, which again can be done later.
 
FastFord said:
Who gives a S*** about the interior! Get that monster of an engine running and driving around before you worry about the color of the back seats. I can see getting the front seats in to have the cage built, but everything else like the back seats can be pulled out in like 30 mins if you want to match them later on down the road, which I do think would look good on the car. And an aftermarket steering wheel would look and function much better than a cougar wheel, which again can be done later.
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Exactly. Only considerations would be that once the cage is installed the headliner will not come out again. Same goes for the rear deck and possibly the A pillar plastics. As for the engine... I won't be able to start the engine until the fuel cell is built. I'll be ordering the fuel pump, pump controller, regulator, fuel level sensor, PTFE SS braided line, AN fittings, and fuel filters next weekend pending funds as I will need about another $1k to cover everything.

However that said... Aeromotive just released a Stealth Fuel system for the 05+ Mustangs. It appears as if it may drop into the Contour OEM tank... but I'm trying to confirm dimensions on it.

Linky

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apparently it is somewhere all of us go to to prove how fast our cars are, where there is a gravitational pull pulling us in the complete opposite direction making us our cars look extreamly weak







nuf said?! :laugh:
 
Not a problem at all

Not a problem at all

aboythatskates said:
im not that smart, but those connections look like they could be a little dangerious when gas is splashing around...
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You think that the rheostat in YOUR fuel tank is completely sealed from the gas tank? Think again. Sparks inside of a gas tank are not a problem. For gas to ignite it needs to be mixed with air in the ratio of about 14:1. Much richer or much leaner and no bang. The ratio inside of the tank is much much too rich for any kind of bang.

Now don't go and do anything stupid with this bit of knowledge. An open container of gas has varying mixtures above it to dropping a match in an open container can be a trip to the darwin awards.
 
andreslobo said:
You think that the rheostat in YOUR fuel tank is completely sealed from the gas tank? Think again. Sparks inside of a gas tank are not a problem. For gas to ignite it needs to be mixed with air in the ratio of about 14:1. Much richer or much leaner and no bang. The ratio inside of the tank is much much too rich for any kind of bang.

Now don't go and do anything stupid with this bit of knowledge. An open container of gas has varying mixtures above it to dropping a match in an open container can be a trip to the darwin awards.
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:laugh:... reminds me of a guy I know that tried to get the bonfire going by splashing it with gasoline from a small 2 gal container... the fire followed the stream of gas up to the tank and he started tossing it around throwing fire balls.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Exactly. Only considerations would be that once the cage is installed the headliner will not come out again. Same goes for the rear deck and possibly the A pillar plastics. As for the engine... I won't be able to start the engine until the fuel cell is built. I'll be ordering the fuel pump, pump controller, regulator, fuel level sensor, PTFE SS braided line, AN fittings, and fuel filters next weekend pending funds as I will need about another $1k to cover everything.

However that said... Aeromotive just released a Stealth Fuel system for the 05+ Mustangs. It appears as if it may drop into the Contour OEM tank... but I'm trying to confirm dimensions on it.

Linky

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every post after this one was massive lawlz...

nice fuel pump though, why not just put that in there if it fits? save a ton of hassle. whats the point of this car, I seem to have lost the objective here? is it a racecar, or is it a show car? seems like a bit of both, but the objective seems to shift depending on what day it is...

if it's a racecar, put in the roll cage and forget the interior, if it's a show car finish the interior... just my $.02
 
It's a Jack of all trades. I plan to race it, I plan to show it, and I plan to drive it a few days a week to work. I'm building it so I can enjoy all aspects of it. As CrazytalkSVT elluded to in another post he made in another thread... this is the reason for this car taking so long. When I started the car I had a vision of what I wanted it to be. Then as I began tearing into it I found aspects of the car, which I didn't really like or would no longer work with the goals I had for the car. It has just snow balled down hill because of this. For a recent example... the fuel pump. I started out wanting to run pump gas with the option to go to E85. Well E85 required three Aeromotive 340LPH Stealth pumps. This was not a robust design. So working with Aeromotive they pushed me to their A1000 Stealth pump, which was about the same cost as all three Stealth pumps so I was OK with it. However then the pump would no longer fit in the OEM tank... so somewhat back to the drawing board. Well after all of the scenarios I ran through I ended up coming right back to where I didn't really want to go... building a custom fuel cell. Then there was the whole fuel sending unit issue that came along with this problem of E85. That is still going on, but finally I have a company that is committed and has a reasonable price. This stupid fuel pump/sending unit issue has been going on for about 2 1/2 months. So you can only imagine how many other issues have cropped up like this during my build. Don't even get me started on the turbo selection...
 
are you still aiming for that 500WHP number? if so im not sure why you need 3 of the Aeromotive 340LPH pumps for that. reason being is a Stealth just made 850AWHP on a Mustang dyno at 3000' elevation. setup is a 3.7L running E85 via 2 of those pumps, a KB boost a pump, 1700cc injectors, -8 feed and -6 return lines, and only 85% IDC with a .78 BSFC.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/762/20120330191835.gif
 
500 is the drop dead minimum number I'm willing to accept... I'm hoping for more. However my main reason for not choosing to go with two or even three pumps is because of the risk of one dying and leaving me running lean. Talking with Aeromotive reps they actually stated, and I quote, "The 340 Stealth pump is a little pump set on kill to deliver the "over the top performance" that it does..." If my A1000 Stealth pump dies all of a sudden the engine is going to stall with it, plus it will be more then capable of handling anything I'm pumping out with my setup. I'll be running the Aeromotive controller too so it will regulate the pump given the engine RPM so I'm not heating up the fuel.
 
ok, so that was sort of what I was thinking of this build, which is why I suggested you upgrade the interior before the cage is in...

it's one of those things you'll wish you'd done earlier in the long run...

see if you cant find some MNB to cover the headliner with, then paint those grey a pillar parts etc, do what you need to so later you can add in a splash of the true blu and have the back seats matched to the fronts etc and it wont look cobbled together....

like I already offered, I'll give you some non svt MNB interior parts for free minus shipping if you need them. they're just taing up room and I dont want this car to fall short in any department. I'd like to read about it in magazines. it should be fully worthy of a write up in any mag. be it fast fords or a rice mag like modified...

a 500+hp FAMILY SALOON with a full cage, custom carbon work and paint, with a raced out interior is the kind of thing you typically only see in cars like skylines....
 
I already have a full spare set of MNB interior including seats in my basement. Also the A-pillar's are already MNB. I also have two cans of Ford MNB interior paint (last couple they had).
 
You plan on running 1700cc injectors on factory management? Can it handle that?

btw for the basic stamp, basically the stamp would input the voltage from your new setup, then according to a table open up a circuit (and close another) set up to mimic the stock rheostat. IIRC the stock rheostat has 13 levels, each level has a difference resistance. You could mimic this operation by adding individual resistors of the same value to each output from the stamp, then the stamp would open up each circuit as you set up the programming to do so. As the voltage moves to a new 'cell' on the table one output circuit closes as the next circuit opens up. BS2 stamps use PBASIC for a language, pretty easy to work with. I think it is feasible and would act 100% stock. I would bench test it with the cluster outside of the car first.
 
I'm running 1000cc injectors. I've got table files from SCT already to run them on the OEM ECM. As for the stamp I no longer need it. I found a US based company that will sell me a level sender that will mimic exactly what I am seeing from the factory sender for $90.
 
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