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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

LOL! Did you put teflon tape around the threads for the PS pump line?

You had more room because you didn't have a rad. in from what I've read. Most of us leave fans and rad in the car. Didn't Airknight go boom on his 95 from 17 lb injectors? Just get a later rail and pencil style injectors. A lot easier to mess with.
 
Yep, I put teflon tape on the threads, but it is driping from where the hardline goes into the hex part that spins. :shrug:

I will unscrew it and try to see if it needs to "seat" better.....

todras said:
Didn't Airknight go boom on his 95 from 17 lb injectors? Just get a later rail and pencil style injectors. A lot easier to mess with.
Click to expand...

I tried looking up airknights posts, and I couldn't find anything about what fuel system he used....
I was told when I tune I can have the length of the injection turned up so that it is getting enough fuel. Is that ^ true?

My "riced" out AF disco gauge was reading lean the entire time it ran.


I don't know what pencil style injectors are and which "later" rail to use. Does it matter if I am return or return-less? I don't know which one I have either....

Any help is appreciated, last thing I want is a problem that I can fix now.... thanks
 
the injectors can only be adjusted so much. everything I read says they shouldn't be run over 80% duty cycle, iirc.

on the injectors, the 95 uses a large side feed injector. the later injectors are much thinner hence the pencil type injector.

your 95 is a return system. so down the road you will want a return fuel rail and injectors. rknewshaw did this before also, iirc.

yes its going to be alittle lean as you are moving more air now because of the upped displacement that the pcm doesn't know about. it should be able to correct for the added air, just might need time to "learn". well mine did but I was also running 19# injectors, not 17#
 
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I had Terry make my rail. http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=53 I'd at least have 19 lb injectors. I think on Ryan's car we got a 98+ rail and the pre98 fuel lines that are in the car were stretched to fit. It was tight but it works.

Here is a 98+ rail next to a returnless.
standard.jpg


Here is a rail that was made for a pre98.
standard.jpg
 
soooooo, how am I going to change all that?

It sounds like I would have to:
-make a new return fuel rail to accept 19# at least
-convert a IMRC LIM to Vac operated
-get 19# injectors and wire harness and splice/solder in the OBD2 connectors?


man, who can do this for me? And was airknights 3L a bomb because he was driving at too high of RPMs for the 17# injectors? I would take it easy and not push the car until I had changed the fuel system or have it dyno tuned......

what should I do?
 
take it easy on it and get it on the dyno and monitor the A/F to see where it is so that you can determine what needs to be done.
 
good call!

Where can I find a good digital read-out AF gauge? Looking for one of the small rectangular ones that I can stick anywhere. I really want to know what the #s are and watch it closely.
 
blu_fuz said:
good call!

Where can I find a good digital read-out AF gauge? Looking for one of the small rectangular ones that I can stick anywhere. I really want to know what the #s are and watch it closely.
Click to expand...

I would suggest this:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php

it is a wide band controller which can be setup to output to a narrow band A/F gauge like most people have. then you can also plug it into a labtop and use the supplied software to monitor the A/F ratio as the software creates a virtual wideband guage with a numeric readout.
 
That's like 1 million dollars :blackeye: I just want a small digital read-out one...... good suggestion though
 
A good dyno will be able to monitor a/f. You add an additional 02 bung in the header and they screw in the sniffer. This might be easy for you if you have plugs in your down streams since you have OBD 1.
 
blu_fuz said:
Yep, I put teflon tape on the threads, but it is driping from where the hardline goes into the hex part that spins. :shrug:

I will unscrew it and try to see if it needs to "seat" better.....
Click to expand...
Sounds like you're probably going to need a new line. I've never been able to "fix" a leak coming from between a P/S line & the hex fitting.

blu_fuz said:
I tried looking up airknights posts, and I couldn't find anything about what fuel system he used....
I was told when I tune I can have the length of the injection turned up so that it is getting enough fuel. Is that ^ true?
Click to expand...
Yes it's true. Unecessary, but doable.

blu_fuz said:
My "riced" out AF disco gauge was reading lean the entire time it ran.
Click to expand...
At idle and cruise the A/F is extremely lean by design. It allows for a more complete burn of the injected fuel, better gas mileage and cleaner emissions.

Because of the fuel delivery strategy, the only place your gauge is even close to accurate is at WOT. Once you get it on the road, do a few WOT pulls to like 5k & see what your gauge reads. They're typically accurate enough to show if there is a problem.

Also as Brapple said, your PCM will need some running time to adjust fuel delivery for your increased displacement.
 
I'd recommend a modified a/f ratio meter from gadgetseller.com since the fatory autometer gauges are so far off but that site appears to be down and you can't have mine. LOL! I know of Greddy gauges that were off by 2 points. Only think I'd really trust is an LC1 or a sniffer at a dyno.
 
todras said:
A good dyno will be able to monitor a/f. You add an additional 02 bung in the header and they screw in the sniffer. This might be easy for you if you have plugs in your down streams since you have OBD 1.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't I want the extra bung in the "straight" of the Y-pipe so it is getting a reading from both manifolds? I understand what you are saying. I just need to find a place to give a good dyno tune and possibly program my 4 code chip, it it will even work for OBD1.
 
blu_fuz said:
That's like 1 million dollars :blackeye: I just want a small digital read-out one...... good suggestion though
Click to expand...


sure but chances are that read out is going to run off the factory narrow band sensors. if you really want to know what your A/F is you need a wideband sensor. The LC-1 setup to display to your current guage is the cheapest way to go, plus you can datalog from the wideband.
 
I see.... it is more of an investment than an add-on. I will definetly consider it.

I am soo happy right now that I didn't want to go to work so I could finish up PCing the rest of my brakes and get this back on the road. Probably this weekend I might actually drive it :drool:.
 
trying to give you options for a cheap wideband O2 sensor.

what I suggested you purchased and install and its ready to go.

sicse has suggested ways to make your own wideband O2 sensor setup. but this way you need to buy the parts, build it and install it.
 
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