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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

Someone just posted pics in another thread and it got me wondering. Because I am using the secondaries do I need to fill inbetween the two ports with JB weld like this and use the bugzuki plates?:
Head%20Porting%20001a2.jpg


Or do I only worry about porting and using the plates and that's it??
 
blu_fuz said:
Someone just posted pics in another thread and it got me wondering. Because I am using the secondaries do I need to fill inbetween the two ports with JB weld like this and use the bugzuki plates?:

*pic*

Or do I only worry about porting and using the plates and that's it??
Click to expand...


you can if you want to, but you don't have to. yes it would be best to keep the ports in the UIM/LIM seperate all the way into the head like stock. but to do that I personally wouldn't us jb weld, I would have the heads welded to fill the area in and that isn't going to be cheap at all.
 
Man, that is some sh-tty port work right there. I hope that was not the final product. :nonono:

You'll probably get arguments for both sides. IMO, done right, I would expect your pic to put down better numbers than a split-port lower dumping into non-divided head inlet ports, (especially with functioning seconaries), but even I probably wouldn't go through THAT much trouble for what would likely be only a small power improvement. Not to mention that, without knowing the coefficient of thermal expansion of JBweld, I'd be weary of using it in that manner.
 
WeRd! That's what I was thinking too - My shiz will be fun anyway, that little bit more of seperation between the primarys and secondaries won't make a difference. Thanks for clarifying for me guys!
 
From the pics so far looks like things are coming along. I do not think that their is much difference caused by the height of the intake plates. The main thing is loosening the EGR tube so that it will swing down a little more before trying to hook it up.

I have not done Flow bench testing with the plates in there so I do not have data to back up my thought that there is no difference. If I could find a flow bench around I would like to test some combinations.

Good luck and get some more pictures.
Paul
 
I got the plates last week and they look very nice. Well made for sure. I can't wait to finish this up, but still have no free time for the build. Little by little. Thanks again Paul!
 
I would love to help you Joe, but I am still in the middle of my build too. Looks like yours is coming along nicely though. I just got my motor out (wasn't too much of a PITA with some patience and my dad's help) and started disassembling the 2.5

Keep up the good work!:cool:
 
I hope I don't beat you or pole120 with the 3L builds.... Are you tearing down your heads for a hybrid and using new bearings? I want to change my bearings but I have no experience with that and I think I will screw it up worse than it could be just by priming the engine properly.....
 
blu_fuz said:
I hope I don't beat you or pole120 with the 3L builds.... Are you tearing down your heads for a hybrid and using new bearings? I want to change my bearings but I have no experience with that and I think I will screw it up worse than it could be just by priming the engine properly.....
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with a 18k mile engine there is no need to change the bearings. just check everything out and go from there.
 
BrApple said:
with a 18k mile engine there is no need to change the bearings. just check everything out and go from there.
Click to expand...
Exactly. My motor only has 5k on it, so i'm just dropping the cams in, changing the timing gear and the oil pan/pickup tube to the Escape setup and putting it back together unless I notice something is really wrong. No need to change bearings, etc. on such a youthful engine. I just got my 2.5 motor out on Saturday because I had been being a little liesurely about it due to having other things going on (weddings, softball, etc...) but now I am really starting to focus to get this bad boy together and back on the road. I don't want to race to get it together though because I want to make sure I do everything right, no sense in doing things twice. I was wondering why you are going to use the 2.5L pan/pickup instead of the escape setup? I didn't notice many people that used the 2.5 pan and tube while doing my research.
 
Frosty said:
I was wondering why you are going to use the 2.5L pan/pickup instead of the escape setup? I didn't notice many people that used the 2.5 pan and tube while doing my research.
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I don't drive my car all crazy so my oil starvation situation is a little different. I just picked up some extra cash this last week so I might go that route and just get it. Do I need the dip stick tube and stick from the escape too?
 
blu_fuz said:
Yep - traded my $300 go kart for it straight up off craigs list
2005 150cc Roketa Catalina :drool: Gets 85 MPG and hits 62 MPH on a good day :)
Click to expand...

I am soooo jealous! :ponder::ponder: .....uh wait a minute, no I'm not...:shrug:....or wait, I am........nope, not really...mine is faster! :laugh::dizzy::idea: ....wait, I don't have a cool trunk like you....:crazy::crazy:.....damnit I am jealous!

If you need help with this big bad project, gimme a call. I like to get diirty too!
 
blu_fuz said:
I don't drive my car all crazy and shiz so my oil starvation situation is a little different. I just picked up some extra cash this last week so I might go that route and just get it. Do I need the dip stick tube and stick from the escape too?
Click to expand...


the dipstick shouldn't really matter, but I do believe the escape one is the same as ours. I am currently using a stock dipstick with the escape pan and with the amount of oil I use it comes to the same point.

bottom line for whatever one you use just mark it for where it should be for the amount of oil you run.
 
You are awake!?!?!?! WTH? - I know you like my bike, but you can't have it. I will be getting back into the build this weekend. Need to tear parts off for painting and then the porting of the heads can begin. I will only need help with the re-install. If I don't physically touch every bolt during the tear down I will never remember where they go..... I will call you when the time is right! - thanks
 
BrApple is right, the dipstick is the same part # for the 2.5L, the 3.0 Taurus and the 3.0 Escape. I was just wondering if there was an advantage to doing it that way that I may have overlooked. Porting is getting done tonight on my motor and then I will be painting the motor this weekend and modifying/painting the motor mount and alt bracket. I know what you mean by having to touch every bolt during tear down. I bag and label everything also, so that it makes things a little easier.
 
SicSE said:
Man, that is some sh-tty port work right there. I hope that was not the final product. :nonono:

You'll probably get arguments for both sides. IMO, done right, I would expect your pic to put down better numbers than a split-port lower dumping into non-divided head inlet ports, (especially with functioning seconaries), but even I probably wouldn't go through THAT much trouble for what would likely be only a small power improvement. Not to mention that, without knowing the coefficient of thermal expansion of JBweld, I'd be weary of using it in that manner.
Click to expand...

blu_fuz said:
WeRd! That's what I was thinking too - My shiz will be fun anyway, that little bit more of seperation between the primarys and secondaries won't make a difference
Click to expand...

That was one of the first pictures I took of the port work... you can follow up on the progress here: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=32010 where it specifically mentions that the ports needed to be cleaned up:troutslap:

And, how do you know the separation between the primaries and secondaries won't make a difference? Sorry, I'd rather the intake align to the ports the way they were designed than have the primary intake port dumping into a large void of a port when the IMRC is closed.

Oh well, different strokes for different folks ;)
 
I was agreeing about the use of the two ports vs the one, not the porting work and quality. I don't care what your quality looks like, good or bad. It is your motor, do what you wish. I would like to have the seperated ports like the stock 2.5 has, but I will be happy if it runs period. Good luck with your build too, and I always check in on your progress :thumbsup:!
 
I'm late to the party but on porting the heads the ford Cd describes the camshaft safe position, where you put them to remove the cams, & all of the valves on that side of the motor should be closed. Only do 1 side at a time.
 
That still helps me - The next step right now is the porting. - I have more pictures of the build, but my internet at home has been down for about 2 weeks. Thanks for the tip!
 
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