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Finally doing a 3L

nice bro i might be able to make it im not sure i was layed off at work and just started a new job but i took a big pay cut so my 3.0L swap will be delayed a little but will be happening soon hopefully. good luck with everything looks like its coming along good so far.:laugh:
 
nice bro i might be able to make it im not sure i was layed off at work and just started a new job but i took a big pay cut so my 3.0L swap will be delayed a little but will be happening soon hopefully. good luck with everything looks like its coming along good so far.:laugh:

I was wondering what happened to ya man. Sorry to hear about the job. The engine is coming out either Friday evening or early Saturday morning so if you can come out that'll be great. Check my CapCity thread for more info.
 
I have the motor mount in-hand from Mike (69Boss302). A big "Thank you" to him for driving out from Annapolis to meet me @ work (I was stuck in meetings)...

I'll be putting it and heads on the block tonight, so we're ready to go when the engine comes out Saturday morning.
 
I have the motor mount in-hand from Mike (69Boss302). A big "Thank you" to him for driving out from Annapolis to meet me @ work (I was stuck in meetings)...

I'll be putting it and heads on the block tonight, so we're ready to go when the engine comes out Saturday morning.

Thanks Mike. You always seem to come through in a pinch:)
 
Glad I could help. How did the swap go?

We hit multiple snags. The major one being that it seems the wrong cam caps were sent with the heads that I bought. I have an extra set of heads that aren't ported yet, but that means getting a complete set of head bolts and gaskets and having to port the other heads. There's not much else we can do to the engine until we get that resolved:(
 
My line of reasoning:

I timed the motor, putting moly assembly lube in each of the caps and on the rollers of the RFFs. I put a wrench on the crank to turn it a few times before putting the rest of the engine together (I always want to make sure timing comes back around properly, and to ensure there's no binding or stoppage). Well, I couldn't turn the thing AT ALL with my 1/2" rachet. Something was seriously no bueno.

No biggie, I thought- I must have put cap or two on backwards, swapped, etc.

Started with B1 Exhaust cam. Removed the RFFs, chain, ensured the stamped numbers lined up all in the same direction and were in the correct order, and tightened the cam caps back down. Could barely turn the cam with my hand, but it would turn.

Then I thought that the head cap was swapped (even though they were already installed when the heads arrived, and I didn't change their order). I swapped with the B1 Intake cam, and tightened just it down. Couldn't turn the cam at all, even with a wrench. Definitely not it.

Went on to the B1 Intake cam, then B2 Exhaust, then B2 Intake. All in turn were barely turnable by hand with the cam caps torqued down to spec (82in/lbs), the combined sum of which made for a completely unturnable motor. No one cam was the culprit. There were no burs or other damage to the cam journals, or to the cams themselves.

Since they were all somewhat turnable, that tells me the caps were in the right order. However, with the SVT cams from LilCe's 98.5 SVT motor on the 3L, it wasn't the slightest bit happy.

'05 Taurus 3L. Difference (albeit minute) in cam journal diameters?
 
Another possibility: Warped heads? Think they overheated and deformed just enough to cause the cams to bind?
That would have to be some serious warpage. I'm surprised you didn't check for that when the heads were off... but I think we've all done that a time or two. :blackeye: Regardless, I'd say warpage is a long shot at best.

You should get a brake cylinder flex-hone, (http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=hone&Page=2) & hone the cam bores in the head with the caps installed. Go over the journals on the cam with a scotchbrite pad, thoroughly clean with brake cleaner, relube & try moving the cam back and forth slightly after as you're torqueing down the caps.

Also something to keep in mind is TSB 06-03-05. The Taurus is not supposed to be included in the TSB, but I've seen stranger things. The jist is that poor alignment of cam cap 8L can cause a tick noise at operating temp. It wouldn't be beyond reason to deduct that it could also possibly cause some binding at assembly. Just something else to double-check.
 
Well here's the update. Dan took the engine to a machine shop and there is no way those were the cam caps that came with those heads, so those heads are scrap metal now. It sucks because now i gotta get new gaskets and bolts as well other expenses. Does anyone know if i can get carbine burr bit locally or does it have to be ordered? Time is a big factor now.
 
Well here's the update. Dan took the engine to a machine shop and there is no way those were the cam caps that came with those heads, so those heads are scrap metal now. It sucks because now i gotta get new gaskets and bolts as well other expenses. Does anyone know if i can get carbine burr bit locally or does it have to be ordered? Time is a big factor now.

Harbor freight sells em
 
there is no way those were the cam caps that came with those heads, so those heads are scrap metal now.
Ugh... this is one of the grossest bits of misinformation on CEG. The heads are not junk. Do you know what Ford says to do if one/all cam caps are ruined/missing? Install new cam cap/s... not get new heads. They are all the same size for a given application.

You need to reinstall used caps in the same location that they were removed from because of any wear patterns that may develop between the cam & cap. A new cap on a used cam is just going to develop the same wear pattern that the old cap had - no harm there.

Now, I'm not sure about pricing of new caps, so it may be cheaper anyway to just get another set of used heads, but you don't need to replace a set of heads because of bad/missing cam caps.
 
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