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RaptorSVT's Official 3L Build Thread

If I change anything it defaults back to 4 lines regardless if I am adding any text or taking some away....

get back on topic :rolleyes:
 
3l Is In!!!!

3l Is In!!!!

Well, it took Tommy and me until about 5:30 this morning but the escape motor is in!

I know nothing is hooked up, we just set the intake on there to see what the clearance issues would be.
3LInstalled1.jpg


3LInstalled2.jpg
 
How are you making out with this? I want to do the exact same thing. I have the SVT Engine on an engine stand right now with the crank out of it. Thinking about scrapping it and dropping a 3L in for the price it is going to cost me to fix the stock SVT engine up.
 
easy stuff. it is going well. almost done. if you want easy without modification get an escape 3L. you dont have to pull the head to put the mount in. it is very easy.
 
you don't have to pull the head to get the mount in, just get janky with the 'ole body grinder.

good pics are here:http://www.newcougar.org/forums/3-0l-duratec-performance/126327-3l-port-matching-4.html

or i could post some pics of the one I'm doing right now as soon as I'm done and get my camera charged.

[edit]

forgot to add... I still like the escape engine better, besides the price. you don't have to flip the fuel rail, and it points the correct way so there is no crazy hose for the NPG fuel block to reach it, just looks cleaner. also don't have to swap the front cover, and it has a better oil pan... and if you want to make it fit, the IM is better.
 
i had a feeling you didnt have to swap the front cover. we did it anyway for piece of mind on my part (im doing the install) and i couldnt remember if it was the escape or not. i know the taurus one cannot, but wasnt sure about the escape.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
oh, hey, btw, did you use your 2.5 rear lifting eye? mine was missing on buth engines, and I need one.
Click to expand...

We took the one off of the 99 SVT engine and installed it on the 3L for lifting. If it is not there, you can use the mount that is lower on the block than the eye. Just put a bolt through the alternator mount. ;)
 
uh, thats a pain, I want an eye. I dont know what ass hat left the one off my 2.5, but I'd like to kick them in the face.

whoever had been doing the work on my tour before I bought it was a jackleg.

probly some shop like meineke, because it only had one owner, and she was an old lady that worked for remax.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
uh, thats a pain, I want an eye. I dont know what ass hat left the one off my 2.5, but I'd like to kick them in the face.

whoever had been doing the work on my tour before I bought it was a jackleg.

probly some shop like meineke, because it only had one owner, and she was an old lady that worked for remax.
Click to expand...

Only the older engines had that hook.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
I don't need my left pinky finger either, but it's nice to have.

haveing the eye there just makes things so much easier, does it not?
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I agree 100%. That is why we stole it off of the old engine and installed it on the new one first thing. The ALT bracket is a very close second though....it's still pretty handy.
 
I wonder how they expect you to get the engine out of a taurus. no lift points, plastic intake manifold, alt bracket isn't on the back.....

I guess they figure if the engine goes in a taurus the rest of the car is a throw away, hahaha
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
I wonder how they expect you to get the engine out of a taurus. no lift points, plastic intake manifold, alt bracket isn't on the back.....

I guess they figure if the engine goes in a taurus the rest of the car is a throw away, hahaha
Click to expand...

You aren't supposed to "lift" these engines out of the car. You are supposed to drop the sub frame.
 
read the ford CD some more. you pull the driver seid engine mount off the frame, disconnect everything, drop the ball joints, pull the axels/intermediate shaft, and lift it on out.

have fun when you spin one of the subframe bolt reatainers in the chassis. if it's one of the back ones, you can pull back the carpet and go through the floor with a 21mm wrench, if its a front... hello cutting wheel.

[edit: oh, were you talking about the taurus? what an extra pita]
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
read the ford CD some more. you pull the driver seid engine mount off the frame, disconnect everything, drop the ball joints, pull the axels/intermediate shaft, and lift it on out.

have fun when you spin one of the subframe bolt reatainers in the chassis. if it's one of the back ones, you can pull back the carpet and go through the floor with a 21mm wrench, if its a front... hello cutting wheel.

[edit: oh, were you talking about the taurus? what an extra pita]
Click to expand...
When I did her clutch, 3 out of the 4 sub frame bolts spun with the nuts. I had to cut in, weld, tighten, and then weld the frame shut. ;) I know what you're talking about. Haha.

Ford CD? What's that? (I should probably get one of those, eh? :D )

I was actually talking about the Contour, and I found it odd how all of you guys were yanking the engines out from the top......it drops down quite easily in comparison I believe. (loosen the upper strut nut, hang the calipers, remove ABS sensors) disconnect everything and away you go....Oh yeah, and disconnect exhaust.
 
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actually, when I pull the MTX, I'm going to be mighty tempted to pull the whole dang thing out the top. it was soooo much easier. more technical, but allot less force involved.

although dropping the subframe is probably fairly easy with an assistant and a lift
 
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