frenchblueC2
amusé par les flatulences
or just head over to NECO and see the link posted there. 
-
Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.
You can register to join the community.
pic says it all
- Thread starter BrApple
- Start date
TUFTOUR
Hard-core CEG'er
car sounds good, what's your a/f ratio at WOT now? Last night mine was around 12.8 to 12.9 so I richened it by 2% to bring it down a little...switched over to the turbo coupe pcv as well (I was starting to get a little noise out the tailpipes off throttle when coming down from high boost, so maybe I was developing the same problem? :shrug: )
loc0gring0
Veteran CEG'er
just watched the vid's... i think your mph goes up fater then my tach does haha sounds sickk
still running Joeys testing tune. so the A/F is getting down to 11.8~12.2 the last I had the laptop connected to the car. But the gauge is going to the same spot all the time. But I am not sure that I hit wot either, but I was close.
check all of the fuses and the wiring between the alternator and the distribution block as well as looking into the bottom of the engine fuse box and didn't find anything wrong with the wiring.
pulled the interior fuse panel and everything checked out ina visual inspection.
however the car did loose power twice on me, both time while trying to tune the car. Using the old battery which was weak it cut out on me when the voltage got to low. When this happened and the power came back the car didn't want to start like the other night when it first happened. So the low voltage coupled with the reset alarm I think it caused the no start condition.
So the working theory at the moment is the low charging alternator isn't charging enough to keep the battery from running down and causing a low voltage problem, which I have seen recently as a speedo jumping around while stopped. So I have a new motorcraft voltage regulator on order from rock auto to see if I can get the alternator to charge right.
I also still need to pull cluster and check connections. when this happened with the cluster last summer I got another one and swapped the tach and speedo into it and installed in the car. it was fine again until the heat of this summer.
Also ordered a Motorcraft TPS as I keep getting a stored code for it.
pulled the interior fuse panel and everything checked out ina visual inspection.
however the car did loose power twice on me, both time while trying to tune the car. Using the old battery which was weak it cut out on me when the voltage got to low. When this happened and the power came back the car didn't want to start like the other night when it first happened. So the low voltage coupled with the reset alarm I think it caused the no start condition.
So the working theory at the moment is the low charging alternator isn't charging enough to keep the battery from running down and causing a low voltage problem, which I have seen recently as a speedo jumping around while stopped. So I have a new motorcraft voltage regulator on order from rock auto to see if I can get the alternator to charge right.
I also still need to pull cluster and check connections. when this happened with the cluster last summer I got another one and swapped the tach and speedo into it and installed in the car. it was fine again until the heat of this summer.
Also ordered a Motorcraft TPS as I keep getting a stored code for it.
TUFTOUR
Hard-core CEG'er
...did you get the pm I sent you?
as the contour turns ....
installed a new tps and voltage regulator and nothing really changed. well right after starting the car up it was charging above 14 volts. but that wasn't long lived. I also found that when the battery showed 12.5 volts and so did the distrubution block under the hood that the Apexi turbo timer was only showing ~11.6 volts. So it seams there is something up somewhere. I also think I narrowed down the issue where all electrical power cuts out. At time this has happened recently I have been trying to tune the car. The circuit breaker would get really hot and I think it was tripping without tripping. Anyway I want to replace with another or get a fuse holder and anl fuse to see what that does. I looked in the bottom of the engine fuse panel and didn't note anything odd, wires looked good from what I could tell. hmm, maybe I should just change all of the fuses to make sure they are all good, even though they all where fine when i checked them the other day.
Other then that I tried out the tune again. Car ran great and the A/F was good from what I observed. but as before the more the car ran the more it learned out when under boost. last I noticed was at part throttle in boost the A/F was fine but it went lean at wot. So I added some fuel with the Xcal2 but haven't had a chance to realyl try it out again. But I wonder if the leaky bov is causing a problem. since it doesn't deal completely I think that it maybe the cause of the car leaning out at idle.
Also driving it yesterday morning a few odd things happened. I noted that the vacuum was alittle low and it cut out early on me once, but that could have been a slow tach too. just kinda weird but just I just need to check everything over thats all.
installed a new tps and voltage regulator and nothing really changed. well right after starting the car up it was charging above 14 volts. but that wasn't long lived. I also found that when the battery showed 12.5 volts and so did the distrubution block under the hood that the Apexi turbo timer was only showing ~11.6 volts. So it seams there is something up somewhere. I also think I narrowed down the issue where all electrical power cuts out. At time this has happened recently I have been trying to tune the car. The circuit breaker would get really hot and I think it was tripping without tripping. Anyway I want to replace with another or get a fuse holder and anl fuse to see what that does. I looked in the bottom of the engine fuse panel and didn't note anything odd, wires looked good from what I could tell. hmm, maybe I should just change all of the fuses to make sure they are all good, even though they all where fine when i checked them the other day.
Other then that I tried out the tune again. Car ran great and the A/F was good from what I observed. but as before the more the car ran the more it learned out when under boost. last I noticed was at part throttle in boost the A/F was fine but it went lean at wot. So I added some fuel with the Xcal2 but haven't had a chance to realyl try it out again. But I wonder if the leaky bov is causing a problem. since it doesn't deal completely I think that it maybe the cause of the car leaning out at idle.
Also driving it yesterday morning a few odd things happened. I noted that the vacuum was alittle low and it cut out early on me once, but that could have been a slow tach too. just kinda weird but just I just need to check everything over thats all.
ctmystique
Hard-core CEG'er
Brian WTF does this even mean? :nonono:
The breaker getting hot, Did you have this installed last year when your car was acting up then too? And is this related to the gauge issue or a different problem altogether? Keep working at it but don't start chasing ghosts either.
I was uploading a tune to the pcm via the xcal2 when the power in the car would cut off. at this time when I checked the circuit breaker it was very warm and normally it isn't like that.
the circuit breaker was installed in march when I relocated the battery.
what I did note yesterday is that there seems to be a difference in voltage, a big one, between the engine bay distribution block and at least the ignition. volt meter on the battery and distribution block reads 12.5 volts. however when I check the volt gauge and the turbo timer they are reading ~11 volts. so somewhere I must have a poor electrical connection is all that I can figure.
the circuit breaker was installed in march when I relocated the battery.
what I did note yesterday is that there seems to be a difference in voltage, a big one, between the engine bay distribution block and at least the ignition. volt meter on the battery and distribution block reads 12.5 volts. however when I check the volt gauge and the turbo timer they are reading ~11 volts. so somewhere I must have a poor electrical connection is all that I can figure.
i really think there are two things going on here now.
one the interior fuse panel isn't getting the power that it should. as i noted above the battery was reading 12.5 volts while the volt gauge was reading ~11 volts or less.
then I believe there is an issue with the circuit breaker over heating now. when it was cutting electrical power out on me the breaker was really warm/hot. when I by passed the breaker with the jumper cables while jumping the car the voltage never changed. the gauge read slightly above 13 volts. otherwise the longer the xcal2 was programming the pcm the lower the voltage would go. that had never happened before in the past. this is the only reason I want to swap out the circuit breaker. it shouldn't get as hot as it was getting.
now the instrument cluster cutting out happened last summer and now this summer. also previously the car was dropping to much voltage so I replaced the alternator and iirc it was fine after that. again ince into the fall and into the spring there where not issues and now in the summer it crops up again.
one the interior fuse panel isn't getting the power that it should. as i noted above the battery was reading 12.5 volts while the volt gauge was reading ~11 volts or less.
then I believe there is an issue with the circuit breaker over heating now. when it was cutting electrical power out on me the breaker was really warm/hot. when I by passed the breaker with the jumper cables while jumping the car the voltage never changed. the gauge read slightly above 13 volts. otherwise the longer the xcal2 was programming the pcm the lower the voltage would go. that had never happened before in the past. this is the only reason I want to swap out the circuit breaker. it shouldn't get as hot as it was getting.
now the instrument cluster cutting out happened last summer and now this summer. also previously the car was dropping to much voltage so I replaced the alternator and iirc it was fine after that. again ince into the fall and into the spring there where not issues and now in the summer it crops up again.
I also figured one other issue out. in past data logging joey has noted that the engine was going lean at idle. well I found the reason. for some reason I put my hand over the horn on the bov and found that I could feel the vacuum pulling on my hand. yesterday I did some checking and found that its not leaking into the intake but at the vacuum line side of the bov. meaning when I remove the vacuum line to the UIM from the bov the vacuum is released from my hand. So I am going to try a thicker o-ring to see if that will help seal the bov. if that doesn't work it looks like I will need to get another one.
well I got a different o-ring to see if I could get the bov to seal and that was a no go.
I removed the circuit breaker and voltages evened out. the speedo didn't jump around at all and I was able to tune the car with out the power cutting out on me. However I still barely get 14 volts when I start the car. then as always over time the voltage will drop. However this afternoon it was only to about 13.5 volts. It would dip lower but that was when something was turned on. however I did see it go to 12 volts when I turned all the lights on and the a/c to max with the fan on high. So something still isn't right. maybe it needs an alternator again ...
other then that its seems to be running well. Like I mentioned before it was leaning out the more I drove the car. So I adjusted the tune and added 6% fuel at wot. when I took it out tonight the A/F was solid and it had good power. then again the cooler temps might have been part of that but i am not possitive. I also had a few moments where it seemed like the clutch was slipping but I believe its was realy the tires. I was rolling slowly into the throttle and the rpms where gradually increacing. then I hit a point where they took off really fast and then it felt like it grabbed again. only think that makes me think it wasn't the clutch was the fact it wasn't repeatable, but I should bleed the clutch again just to make sure.
I removed the circuit breaker and voltages evened out. the speedo didn't jump around at all and I was able to tune the car with out the power cutting out on me. However I still barely get 14 volts when I start the car. then as always over time the voltage will drop. However this afternoon it was only to about 13.5 volts. It would dip lower but that was when something was turned on. however I did see it go to 12 volts when I turned all the lights on and the a/c to max with the fan on high. So something still isn't right. maybe it needs an alternator again ...
other then that its seems to be running well. Like I mentioned before it was leaning out the more I drove the car. So I adjusted the tune and added 6% fuel at wot. when I took it out tonight the A/F was solid and it had good power. then again the cooler temps might have been part of that but i am not possitive. I also had a few moments where it seemed like the clutch was slipping but I believe its was realy the tires. I was rolling slowly into the throttle and the rpms where gradually increacing. then I hit a point where they took off really fast and then it felt like it grabbed again. only think that makes me think it wasn't the clutch was the fact it wasn't repeatable, but I should bleed the clutch again just to make sure.
well I just don't catch a break at all.
resently I have been hearing a rotor rubbing. I have been meaning to check this out. well I got under the car today and found out what was going on ... both front wheels had alot of play in them turns out the axle nuts had come loose. So I have re torqued them, hopefully they don't go anywhere. Only think that I notced was the brakes always took a few pumps to work recently when taking he car out for the first time in a day. I also thought I heard some humming too so hopefully there is no bearing/hub damage.
I also went about swapping the O2 sensors to determine if the 20% different from bank 1 to 2 was caused by the O2 sensor. Of course the rear sensor was aing to remove what a pain. But I got it out and swapped it for the month old one I had on bank 2. So hopefully NPG comes back and tells me I need an O2 sensor.
resently I have been hearing a rotor rubbing. I have been meaning to check this out. well I got under the car today and found out what was going on ... both front wheels had alot of play in them
turns out the axle nuts had come loose. So I have re torqued them, hopefully they don't go anywhere. Only think that I notced was the brakes always took a few pumps to work recently when taking he car out for the first time in a day. I also thought I heard some humming too so hopefully there is no bearing/hub damage. I also went about swapping the O2 sensors to determine if the 20% different from bank 1 to 2 was caused by the O2 sensor. Of course the rear sensor was a
ing to remove what a pain. But I got it out and swapped it for the month old one I had on bank 2. So hopefully NPG comes back and tells me I need an O2 sensor.TUFTOUR
Hard-core CEG'er
that sucks with how things are going...hope everything gets worked out soon
that sucks with how things are going...hope everything gets worked out soon
thanks, this has started to become very trying. but I just need to keep pushing and keep moving forward, more so after last night .... I hate
ing rainy days ...cobrawannabe
Addicted CEG'er
thanks, this has started to become very trying. but I just need to keep pushing and keep moving forward, more so after last night .... I hate
Man, oh, man, Brain. I'm reallly impressed with how dedicated you are to this car. It's really cool to watch so closely, too. Thanks for this thread; it has really given me alot of insight to how complicated things like this can get. I wish you the best of luck. With you working on it, this car is bound to turn out awesome
well I am not sure where I am with this at the moment. After reading suggestion I must have an intake or exhaust leak. I can't see there being anything wrong with the motor.
Bank 2 is still running 20% richer then bank 1.
I had a P0401, when I removed the UIM I found the line to the egr vacuum solenoid which connects to the egr valve was broken. This means the valve wasn't openning when it should hence theinsufficient egr flow code.
I removed the UIM and reseated the LIM. no difference in fuel trims after.
I found a old baseline data log for the 3L before any turbo modifications and it was dead on for A/F, just 15% lean because of the added displacment.
The only thing that I did between the data logging and the turbo install/tuning was I removed and resealed the bugzuki plates to the heads.
So I either have a leak there or an exhaust leak. I was under the car tonight as it was running and I did kinda think I heard an exhaust leak. So I will have to check the headers tomorrow.
other then that I reinstalled the turbo tune and ran it with 4% fuel added at wot since the PCM will lean out the whole engine after some time. Needless to say it ran very well tonight and built boost really fast. On the highway accelerating at one point either the wheels slipped or the clutch slipped as the tach jumped about 1 krpm then settled back down. hard acceleration from a stop didn't produce the same thing, so that was alittle weird.
So what I will most likely end up doing is bypassing the turbo and reinstalling the stock injectors and maf. Once I revert to the stock tune I can datalog the engine again to see which bank is really off. This is after the confirmation with datalogging with the wide band O2 sensor installed in each bank to get a good idea where the A/F ratio stands for each half of the engine.
Other then that the voltage has been holding more steady. It seems that the cooling fans where reset to the stock turn on temps. This seems to put less stress on the charging system and the temp does stay in control. Only down side is the oil is now running alittle hotter. I still ahve a few things to work out here but I feel more confident in driving the car.
So its coming along slowely. Still a struggle to keep working and not give up .... but its looking better little by little.
but as aways a short drive when hitting boost is enough to bring me back and put a smile on my face:laugh:
Bank 2 is still running 20% richer then bank 1.
I had a P0401, when I removed the UIM I found the line to the egr vacuum solenoid which connects to the egr valve was broken. This means the valve wasn't openning when it should hence theinsufficient egr flow code.
I removed the UIM and reseated the LIM. no difference in fuel trims after.
I found a old baseline data log for the 3L before any turbo modifications and it was dead on for A/F, just 15% lean because of the added displacment.
The only thing that I did between the data logging and the turbo install/tuning was I removed and resealed the bugzuki plates to the heads.
So I either have a leak there or an exhaust leak. I was under the car tonight as it was running and I did kinda think I heard an exhaust leak. So I will have to check the headers tomorrow.
other then that I reinstalled the turbo tune and ran it with 4% fuel added at wot since the PCM will lean out the whole engine after some time. Needless to say it ran very well tonight and built boost really fast. On the highway accelerating at one point either the wheels slipped or the clutch slipped as the tach jumped about 1 krpm then settled back down. hard acceleration from a stop didn't produce the same thing, so that was alittle weird.
So what I will most likely end up doing is bypassing the turbo and reinstalling the stock injectors and maf. Once I revert to the stock tune I can datalog the engine again to see which bank is really off. This is after the confirmation with datalogging with the wide band O2 sensor installed in each bank to get a good idea where the A/F ratio stands for each half of the engine.
Other then that the voltage has been holding more steady. It seems that the cooling fans where reset to the stock turn on temps. This seems to put less stress on the charging system and the temp does stay in control. Only down side is the oil is now running alittle hotter. I still ahve a few things to work out here but I feel more confident in driving the car.
So its coming along slowely. Still a struggle to keep working and not give up .... but its looking better little by little.
but as aways a short drive when hitting boost is enough to bring me back and put a smile on my face:laugh:
TUFTOUR
Hard-core CEG'er
good for you! keep it up, Brian
SVT Loki
Veteran CEG'er
Glad to see your figuring out those little gremlins :blackeye: