• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Vortech build

I should have been clearer, I pulled the jackshaft/bearings apart. Haven't done the S/C yet. I'm still working on getting everything fully disassembled to make sure it's all repairable. So far it's looking good though.

I did run into some issues getting the 3-pin coupler off the S/C input shaft though. I got the bolt removed and the shear key slides free but with the small puller I had and 3/8" drive tools I couldn't get it to budge. It almost looks like there is some loctite or something in it. It may need to get pressed off or I may need to heat that sucker off to break whatever is in there free.

Gorman, The impeller just gets pressed up against the housing. You're going to need a variety of shims, sockets, adapters etc to press it all back together. As with any other thing that gets pressed together/apart it's all about finding the right adapters to drive the parts together straight while properly supporting them. The how-to's on the mustang sites are actually pretty good, I'd start by reading through those a few times. This isn't an overly difficult task if you're fairly mechanically inclined but is definitely something you need to take your time and do it right. Either that or send it to one of the rebuild places or Vortech direct.
 
I'm pretty confident that I've identified everything that needed some attention thus far so I think you'll make out pretty good. I want to get the missing block sketched up this week and I will get that to my machinist at the same time I have the shaft/coupler turned down to clean them up.

If we didn't have snow here you'd have it done sooner but with how short the snowmobiling season is gotta ride when you can. Hoping to get in a few miles this weekend. :)
 
99Mystique ATX said:
You're going to need a variety of shims, sockets, adapters etc to press it all back together. As with any other thing that gets pressed together/apart it's all about finding the right adapters to drive the parts together straight while properly supporting them. The how-to's on the mustang sites are actually pretty good, I'd start by reading through those a few times. This isn't an overly difficult task if you're fairly mechanically inclined but is definitely something you need to take your time and do it right.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that the 3 pin coupler could be pressed on before the two halves of the head unit are bolted together and the impeller could be pushed on most of the way ... leaving enough play to locate/mesh the input gear to the output gear. Then once the head unit is bolted together drive the impeller all the way home.

I just wanted someone who has done this to confirm/ shoot me down in flames :crazy: .... G.
 
You probably could do it that way but I wouldn't. You run the risk of the gears binding when assembling it. The coupler shouldn't go on/off very hard so it's really a non-issue. Once I get this one off and cleaned up I'm sure it'll be no different.
 
OH HELLL YEAH. Aircougar rocks!!!!

He's selling me his,
idler.
Rad spacers
And most importantly,
Inlet tube!!!!!!!!!!!!

OMGWTFBBQ
 
99Mystique ATX said:
You probably could do it that way but I wouldn't. You run the risk of the gears binding when assembling it. The coupler shouldn't go on/off very hard so it's really a non-issue. Once I get this one off and cleaned up I'm sure it'll be no different.
Click to expand...

I was trying to think of a way of pressing the parts back on before assembly of the two halves. to avoid crushing the casing and/ or the thrust washers. I didn't fancy stressing the two threads to re-assemble, in case something went wrong. Pressing before assembly, using the other end of the shaft they are being pressed onto seemed favorite.... i guess not.

is there a vid online of someone stripping and rebuilding a unit ?

I did look; the closest i got was some guy in Canada thumping a head unit and a hammer on his bench encouraging you to send yours' along. He got slated by the Mustang community after someones' head unit got futzed ....G.
 
It'll be ok Gorman. Just go caveman on it with a hammer, those internals aren't crucial anyway. ;)
 
gorman said:
I was trying to think of a way of pressing the parts back on before assembly of the two halves. to avoid crushing the casing and/ or the thrust washers. I didn't fancy stressing the two threads to re-assemble, in case something went wrong. Pressing before assembly, using the other end of the shaft they are being pressed onto seemed favorite.... i guess not.

is there a vid online of someone stripping and rebuilding a unit ?

I did look; the closest i got was some guy in Canada thumping a head unit and a hammer on his bench encouraging you to send yours' along. He got slated by the Mustang community after someones' head unit got futzed ....G.
Click to expand...

I understand, you definitely want to minimize the stress on the bearings as you're reassembling it. I had similar concerns as well but if you properly heat parts as you're reassembling it will pretty easily all drop back together. The worst (if you can even call it that) part is pressing the impeller on and off. The rest of it will easily come apart/go back together with minimal effort.

As I've said before, I know you're trying to figure it all out ahead of time but I think you'll find once you start disassembling it that it is easier than you think. If you're not comfortable with it find a friend that has rebuilt a turbo or something along those lines to help you with it.

Using a hammer is the last thing I would do on one of these. I'm not sure why anyone would ever thing that hammering a high-speed assembly together and apart was a good idea. Let alone telling others to send their stuff his way. Talk about performing work above your skill level... :-/

BTW, it appears that Beans just hit the Vortech parts jackpot. Nice! :)
 
99Mystique ATX said:
As I've said before, I know you're trying to figure it all out ahead of time but I think you'll find once you start disassembling it that it is easier than you think. If you're not comfortable with it find a friend that has rebuilt a turbo or something along those lines to help you with it.
Click to expand...
I'm capable, i installed my Torsen, camshafts twice etc. but as you said, i'm just being cautious after waiting 2 years for a vortech kit to come up for sale.


99Mystique ATX said:
BTW, it appears that Beans just hit the Vortech parts jackpot. Nice! :)
Click to expand...
yeah, great to see you guys coming thru for him .....G.
 
.... yes they choose to put that dent there instead of leaving it to you to cut that stud down. :confused:

I have the nickel coating too, which stopped me from flattening the dent .... G.
 
Vortech build

I ended up getting the ceramic coating.. I don't have studs on my headers, I have hex bolts.

Not much clearance in some of these should make things interesting. Might have to get a couple more shorter bolts for clearance.
 
oh yes; it's fun all the way installing those headers.

What is your clearance at the bottom, between the header and the sump pan like ? ...G.
 
Gorman its negative 40 degrees F out right now. I wont touch anything with metal outside till maybe march :D
 
yeah they've been showing you guys shivvvvvvering your bits off, on the news all day lol.

Just hope the jetstream decides to go back north where it belongs ..... we're flooded here and if the ground freezes, the service pipes will be cracking all over

(we get your eastern seaboard weather 3 days after it leaves you .. generally) ....G.
 
Picture no worky.... :(

I'm hoping to get the head unit torn apart this weekend and possibly drop the jackshaft off to be cleaned up on the lathe. I have a pic but cna't post it from work but one of the impeller splines is cracked so it looks like you will need a new impeller. :-/

I just hope that is the last of the bad news for this head unit. We'll find out once I get it all apart. I tried to pull the drive coupler off the S/C again with no luck yet. Hopefully a bit of heat helps that come right off as I don't think I can fit it in the press I have access to.
 
im going to assume its your intake elbow mr gollum. the grommet is where the IAT is supposed to go according to the factory manual. If you get one of the 180* elbows like i have it will slide down and cover it up, or you can plastiweld it closed since its on the IC now
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top